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Friday, 17 September 2010

16.09.2010 New Drivetrain

clean your drivetrain!
 
Following the chainsuck episode, I learned that the way it ought to be is that your drivetrain should be changed entirely when the time comes. New teeth (cassette and chainrings) would warrant new chain. In my case, the RD jockey wheels also need to be changed.
 
Uh oh, that means $. Big time.
 
My current drivetrain:
Crankset : Shimano Deore 2010 FC-M590-L 22/32/44T 170mm arm
Cassette: SRAM PG-970 11-34T
Chain: XTR/Dura Ace CN-7701 9 speed
Chain connector: KMC Missing Link 9 speed
RD jockey wheels: KCNC 11T sealed bearing
 
As you can see, the drivetrain setup is no more SRAM/Truvativ/XTR, but more of 'whatever goes'.
:)
 
Crankset
The chainrings on Stylo are a little bit worn out now making me suffer with chainsuck, and the Deore on Naza's bike has only run for less than 100 km and is sitting somewhat idle collecting dust. I intended to only swap the rings from Deore to Stylo, in order to make a cheap and simple change.
 
Prior to that, I've asked around for loose chainrings (22/32/44T), but none available and new ones are not cheap. The easier path is to buy new crankset (and it comes with BB too). A new Stylo Team 3.3 (not OCT) would be around RM400 (cheapest I found), a new XT would be around RM650, and a new Deore 2010 is between RM170 to RM200. Okay, Deore is out of the league there, but they're easier on the pocket, and more durable. However, I don't intend to spend $, hence I'm going the thrift option.
 
The big and middle chainring BCDs for my Truvativ Stylo Team and Naza's Shimano Deore 2010 are the same - 104 mm. However, the spider length is a bit longer on the Stylo hence it won't accept the big ring from Deore's. Well, it's not that simple after all. So, I took out Stylo from Hollowpoint together with its BB and Deore from Naza's Diamondback, and swapped them out. The process took me a good 1½ hours with cleaning and all. Also, I've read in a forum that the steel midring and granny on Deore are more durable compared to aluminium and people swear by it. Obviously there's the weight penalty, but I guess I could live with that considering the $ involved.
 
Cassette
I bought the cassette secondhand in a very good condition (very slightly used) to replace my old one a couple of months ago. No wear sign at all, so I consider that it is new.
 
Chain
My XTR/Dura Ace CN-7701 chain is worn badly now, and it's high time for a change. I'm still using CN-7701 chain to replace the old one due to it's zinc plated feature. That means it's easily cleaned and would not rust easily. XT's is with zinc plated outer plate, too. Moreover, I got a good price for the chain, so I grabbed it. Mind you that CN-7701 does not get a very good review on mtbr, but I've been riding with it and I can live with it. Perhaps if I'm able to do it diligently, I'll keep track of the mileage and wear of the chain. That'll be something nice to do and report in here.
 
Chain Connector
I'm a fan of chain connectors. There are a few brands available in the market - the original SRAM Powerlink II, KMC's Missing Link, and two other Taiwan brands. SRAM's tend to be sold at RM15 and KMC's at RM10. They're virtually the same, and I've been using KMC's for a couple of years now with not much of a problem. Why KMC? Well, the answer is obvious - the price is only 67% percent of SRAM's.
 
I admit that some people would have to get really acquainted to installing and removing the connectors, and many ended up cursing at them while nursing their bleeding fingers before throwing them away at the trailside and resorting back to using the good ol' chain tool and spare links. I don't have this problem, and I'm happy with not needing to whip out my chain tool.
 
If possible, I'll get the gold coloured ones. It acts as a marker for lubing my chain.
 
RD Jockey Wheels
The JWs on my 2010 SRAM X9 RD are turning into sharp 11 pointed stars already. After much research, I came to the conclusion that I could use KCNC JWs to replace them. The original ones are 'bushing, hardend' (that's what it says on SRAM's technical manual) with sealed bearings. KCNC's are using 7075 anodized Alloy.
 
Prior to 2010, X9 RDs are using JW with offset mounting for the top pulley. The problem that it poses is that the replacement JW is only available from SRAM and it's not an easy find at least in JB's LBS. I bought a pair for my 2008 X9, and it costed me RM70, from a prominent bike shop in Bandar Melaka. The 2010 X9 eliminates this, and I'm a happy man.
 
That means, I could use third party JWs such as KCNC's. Not for the bling factor, but more of their durability. A fellow rider has been using them for more than 2 years and the condition is still okay. Considering that it's CNC-machined from alloy and the chain rollers grinding on it are made of steel, I'd say that they're good.
 
Just my luck, I got mine from BBS slightly used (only 3 months according to the seller). The ad was posted early this week and I contacted the seller on Tuesday morning. Transfered RM40 and the next day I received the pair of 11T KCNC's. The seller works for DHL, so he waived the postage :)
 
first ride
As a note to self, the new drivetrain starts at odometer reading of 5016 km.
I went into Seri Alam trail yesterday with the new drivetrain setup, and I'd say it's a smooth ride. I didn't actually set and tune the RD properly and as best as I would have, only that it does shift okay with a little skip on the lower gears. However, I'm happy to report that I'm able to use my 11T on the cog now. Will have to further tune the RD for the best possible setting.
 
Well, that'll be after I've cleaned the bike. Perhaps some quiet time after all the Aidilfitri open house invitations.
 
make it better
Some riders are using 2 sets of chain and they swap between the chains after some interval. This reportedly results in longer chain life. I don't know if it is true.
 
However, we can also use these tips from KMC to minimise chain wear (and perhaps extend drivetrain life).
 
 
Thanks for dropping by.
Have a good day.
 
glossary of acronyms
RD: rear derailleur
BCD: bolt circle diameter
JW: jockey wheel
LBS: local bike shop
CNC: computer numerical controlled
DHL: not dua hari lewat/lambat
 
 

1 comment:

  1. Your post very informative..drivetrain worn out also happen to me..now I have the idea how to overcome it..keep on sharing

    ReplyDelete