10 Speed (or 20, or 30)

 

The normal gear count when I started mountain biking in 2007 was 27. That means 3 on the front and 9 on the rear. We refer to it as 9 speed, as saying 'twenty seven' is mouthful, and perhaps also it sounds too newbie.

:)

 

Of course there are also 8 speeds and 7 speeds still lurking around, particularly on cheap complete bike offerings. There are also 8 speeds on old skool riders' bikes, on the grounds of being content with it and don't see the need for additional weight plus expenses.

 

In 2009 SRAM introduced XX drivetrain, the revolutionary 10 speeds on the rear cog of an mtb, with the 10 speed CNC cassette, X Dome, which borrowed their road bike cassette technology. It came with a better shifting chainring design, closer ratio gears, and overall groupset (with brakes and fork) weight lower than Shimano's XTR (3x9). However, the XX system is having only 20 gear count, with 2 chainring in front.

 

Recently, Shimano also joins in the mtb 10 speed bandwagon with their lineup of Dynasys system, also with 2- and 3-chainring setups. Take that, 30 gears now for mtb! Not to be left out, SRAM also replied with their line up of new X7, X9 and X0 with a choice of also 20 or 30 gears. Do note that both are still offering the 'normal' 3x9 option.

 

Well, it seems that the terms that we use for indicating the gear count would definitely have to be changed now. A 10 speed may mean 20 gears or 30 gears. If road bike gearing tech is to be an indication of things to come, what's next? 11 speed? Electronic controlled shifting?

 

I haven't tried any of the 10 speed system, thus I can't say anything much about it except for the system itself. The big question for now: do we need them?

 

It goes down to personal choice. Efficiency, weight and durability need to be balanced. Not to mention the initial amount of $ to be forked out for a complete drivetrain.

 

Of course, there's also an issue of incompatibility with other systems. Can SRAM's 10 speed parts be used on Shimano's equivalent? With the 3x9 system, drivetrain parts are interchangeable between Shimano and SRAM, except for the rear shifter and RD which need to be specific due to cable pull ratio. Furthermore, with Shimano's Dynasys, the chain is specific for 10 speed, and even the side of the chain needs to be installed correctly. To me, that's robbing away flexibility and it goes without saying that you're stuck with whatever they want you to need for your drivetrain.

 

The interesting part of this is that SRAM is offering the 10 speed lineup as a complete groupset now; hub, crankset and brakes now packaged as SRAM's X0, X9 and X7 in addition to their existing shifters, derailleurs, cassette and chain respectively. That's another story altogether.

 

What we are presented with now are choices. Or are we shoved with choices...? There are many configurations available for any of the setups, be it 2x10, 3x10, either from SRAM or Shimano. For instance, the cassette choices for X9 has 9 configurations, but perhaps 7 of them are from their road range.

 

Shimano's Dynasis:

XTR				XT			SLX
crankset		cassette		crankset	cassette		crankset	cassette
3x10	2x10	11-36	11-34	3x10	11-36	11-34	3x10	11-36	11-34
24	38	11	11	24	11	11	24	11	11
32	26	13	13	32	13	13	32	13	13
42		15	15	42	15	15	42	15	15
		17	17		17	17		17	17
		19	19		19	19		19	19
		21	21		21	21		21	21
		24	23		24	23		24	23
		28	26		28	26		28	26
		32	30		32	30		32	30
		36	34		36	34		36	34

 

SRAM's lineup:

XX					X0
crankset			cassette		crankset			cassette
2x10			11-32	11-36	3x10	2x10		11-32	11-28	11-26	11-23	12-36
26	28	30	11	11	22	26	28	11	11	11	11	12
39	42	45			33	39	42
					44
			32	36				32	28	26	23	36

 

X9
crankset			cassette
3x10	2x10		11-23	11-25	11-26	11-28	12-25	12-26	12-27	11-32	12-36
22	26	28	11	11	11	11	12	12	12	11	12
33	39	42
44
			23	25	26	28	25	26	27	32	36

 

X7
crankset			cassette
3x10	2x10		11-23	11-26	11-28	11-32	12-36
22	26	28	11	11	11	11	12
33	39	42
44
			23	26	28	32	36

 

figures are from SRAM and Shimano websites

cassettes tooth count for SRAMs are unavailable

 

I'll stick for 3x9 for the time being, and waiting for the XX's X-glide chainring shifting tech to trickle down to their lower tier offerings.

:)

 

What's your drivetrain choice?

(Single speeders need not reply).

 

Thanks for coming over.

Have a good day!

 

p/s: now that they're moving into 10 speed, Shimano Alivio is now offered at 9 speed too.

RTW 22.10.2010 - The New L Route

The L Route

 

Thanks to my office mate Haris who provided a tip on a possible route, I ventured a new shorter path to the office this morning.

 

I call it my L Route. L is for:

if I'm feeling Lazy to go the normal route

if I'm Late going out

if I need to be Lone (okay, that's a bit cheesy)

 

Well, the 'lone' bit is only a short distance - about 2 km, and it could be obsolete (although not too soon) when the road is fully opened to public.

 

The route is actually a twist on the hilly route of Taman Bukit Rinting, Taman Rinting, and Kampung Pasir Gudang Baru. Previously, I would go left towards Taman Mawar at the interchange after exiting Kampung Pasir Gudang Baru and continue from there. The L Route is on the right hand side, and is part of a new stretch of highway from Pasir Gudang to Bakar Batu.  It is rideable all throughout the journey, with a very short section of red earth (currently).

 

I don't think I could take my RTW Machine with that route, at least not with slicks. There's a sandy section with loose gravels right before the small bridge at the jetty of Kampung Pasir Gudang Baru. The L Route has a short unpaved section which would be quite messy if it rains. The exit of the route is the Pasir Gudang Highway, towards JB. That means I'm going counter-current, and for that I have to ride on the grass outside the road shoulder - plus there are a few holes and drains that would be awful for a rigid bike.

 

It is about 3 km shorter that my normal route, and this morning I'm early by 9 minutes compared to my average time. I'll use it on my way back home this evening insyaAllah. I could also ride on the new highway straight to Kota Puteri, and make it a true L Route - an L shape route.

 

The haze in Pasir Gudang area is quite bad, and it may limit my RTW if it doesn't get better. However, I'm quite reluctant to have a day without my dose of endorphin early in the morning.

Sigh...

 

Stats today:

Out from home	0659	hours
Arrive office	0727	hours
Door-to-door	28	mins
Ride time	26'45"
Distance	9.6	km
Ave. speed	21.6	km/h
Max speed	42.0	km/h
Odometer	5341.5	km
Good doggies	0	Zero!
Mode	L Route	Hollowpoint, knobbies

 

 

Have a good ride, y'all.

May Allah bless you.

Thanks for coming by.

Frame Considerations

gorgeous white painted, not the frame in discussion

You're a newbie and you've found out after a few rides that there's something wrong with your frame. Most of the time it's actually your inner wants are at play; and your head is telling you that a certain frame brand or design is much better than what you're having now. Well, if you want to switch to a new 'better' frame, that is your choice. The same also applies to a seasoned rider, but I trust that it would be more of a 'need' thingy.

Frame switching involves a lot of attention to details because that's the center of the build itself. All parts are connected to it. Okay, well, except for fork, stem, cockpit, front wheel, but you get my drift.

First off, there's the type of frame that you want to have, either a hardtail or full susser. You also may consider the material of the frame itself, be it carbon fiber, aluminium (of various grades), titanium, scandium, unobtainium (okay, that's too exotic). Then you have to look at the geometry that suits you. These are mighty important.

What's important just as well, but to a bit lesser degree (just a tiny bit) are the details on the frame.

You have to look at the:
headtube length
headtube construction (for the headset type)
BB shell length
BB type
RD dropout
V-brake bosses
disc brake mounting tabs
seatpost size
seattube size
cabling brackets
bottle cage bracket holes
bracket holes for pannier rack

I won't discuss about the frame types, materials and geometry. You have to look elsewhere for those. What's seldom being discussed are the other details as listed above (in no particular order of importance), and let's take a look at them. Here we go...

headtube length and headset type need to be looked at,
also note the cable brackets are on the top tube side for this frame

headtube length
If you're switching to a new frame and intend to use your existing expensive forks, then you have to measure the new frame's headtube length. Different frames would differ sligtly. You have to add spacers below your stem, or cut your precious fork's steerer tube to accommodate to a shorter headtube. If the fork's steerer tube is short by more than 5mm after stem is installed (without any spacers), that's a sure indication that the headtube length is much longer than your current. You have to look for other frames with about the same headtube length as your current one, then.

headtube construction (for the headset type)
If you intend to re-use your headset on a new frame, then the headtube diameter and type shall be looked upon. The 'standard' diameter size is for a 1 1/8" headset. The newer standard, usually for a much burlier frames is 1.5" e.g. freeride, downhill. [Update 17.08.2015: Also, it is now common for frames intended for 650B (27.5") and 29" wheels to have tapered 1.5" bottom with 1 1/8" top headset]. There's also the smaller 1" diameter, but these are no more common for mtb frames.

There are also many different headset types - normal, internal and integrated. You have to know what's on your current frame, and compare that with your replacement frame.

BB shell length for this frame is 68 mm, note the spacers used

BB shell length
Usually English thread BB are found on mtb frames, either 68 mm or 73 mm length. In the case of external BB, you need to put two 2.5 mm spacers on the drive side, and one spacer on the non-drive side if the frame's BB shell length is 68 mm. Keep the spacers neatly in your spares box if the BB shell length is 73 mm.

Check your BB spindle length in case it is the square taper or ISIS spline or Shimano Octalink. It has to match your BB length, or you'll have issues with your chainline/shifting.

RD dropout, note that there are no threaded holes provided for pannier rack mounting

[Added 17.08.2015]
BB type
There is a plethora of BB types now, as technology is expanding and components are refined to suite riding styles. Check what is your current BB type and the new frame you intend to use. If they are directly compatible, you don't have to spend $ for adapters (if available) to get a new BB altogether. Mind you, it goes without saying that the crankset follows the type of BB that you're using. So take some time to dwell into the subject and if you haven't, put the extra $ required in your budget.

RD dropout
Nowadays, frames come with replaceable RD hangers. Always get a spare RD hanger when you're getting a new frame, and put it safely in your riding bag as an emergency spare. Especially for long, epic rides, you'll never know when you'll need them.

who da boss?
also note that there are no pannier rack mounting holes on side of the seatstay

V-brake bosses
If you intend to run disc brakes on your bike (the norm now), then you can do without the bosses. However, if you're planning on using V-brakes, then obviously you have to have the bosses on the frame. Make sure that the bosses are there, or you have to make a separate purchase (seldom is the case, though). I've learnt that there are 2 sizes of bosses, so make sure you know which one to get.

disc brake tabs - a norm on modern frames

disc brake mounting tabs

If you intend to run V-brakes, then this is not important to you. However, it is best to have it for future upgrade should you feel the itch. Be careful while admiring a fellow rider's rig, and if you're feeling 'left out' as being the only rider in the pack with Vees (or cantilevers, for that matter). If you're using disc brakes, then you should check for the tabs. Nowadays frames come with the tabs, but do check when you're getting NOS (new old stock) frames sold cheap, or for that vintage quality.

seatpost size
You may need to lay rest your current seatpost if the size is not the same as your new frame's. Also applies to your seatpost clamp. Be careful also to note the seatpost size on your new frame, whether it is easily available currently.

A friend of mine has to source out on ebay and pay extra, because the seatpost for his frame is rare nowadays. Well, his is a vintage mtb frame, anyway.

Also, look at the seatpost clamp slit, whether it is on the forward or facing the rear tire. It is better if it is facing forward - reduced tendency for water or mud to seep in from rear tire spray while rolling.

the cable routing for the FD on this frame is from top,
the FD is XT down swing but can handle top routing as well

seattube size

This is directly related to the seatpost size, but the concern is more on the FD clamp. Usually the FD has spacers to adapt for different seattube diameters. You would need them if your new frame's seattube diameter is smaller than your current one.

I have tried using DIY spacers (inner tube, metal sheets), but of course, always the best path is to use the specific spacers supplied with your FD. Get them from the bike shop if you don't have them. Use your charm, and you could get them for free.

[Added 17.08.2015]
These days, added to the already many types of FD mounting for MTB is the direct mount type, borrowed from road bike norm. If your new frame has this, then you need to fork out extra $ for the new FD. Ask the seller (if bought secondhand) to have this in the package so you're saved from the hassle of getting a new one.

In the case of a full-susser, many frames are having specific type of FD mounting style. Some even require you to use a Shimano E-type which is uncommon and rare, if not hard to find at your LBS.

cabling brackets dictate your cable routing
my favourite - running on toptube sides or under it

cabling brackets
Look at your riding buddies' frames and you would see that their cable routings for brakes and shifters vary. Some have it railed on the top of the top tube, some have it a the sides of the top tube, some running beneath the downtube, and I've seen a frame with routing threaded into the top tube, on its sides.

There are advantages and disadvantages on routing the cables a certain way. Some would save you on cabling hoses but exposing your cables to dirt. Routing your shifter cables underneath the downtube (usually bare for a length) would certainly be the case. Check that the frame comes with the plasic guide on the bottom of BB shell if the routing is underneath the downtube. Routing the cable on top of the top tube would rob you the space to put a utility bag such as this Topeak Tri Bag.

Cable routing would also affect the type of FD clamp. Usually for bottom routed cable, the FD clamp would be the high type (down swing) and low clamp (top swing) for top routed. Anyway, check if your FD could handle both cable entries. You're $afe if it is. The same goes for E-type FD (Shimano). Note: those Shimano XTs in the links are of Dual Pull Technology - they can take either routing.

[Added 17.08.2015]
New generation MTB frames are having shifter cables routed through the inside of the frame itself. This in my opinion is a cost cutting exercise for the manufacturer. There are no extra parts for the cable routing brackets, only some rubber bits for covering the hole. This, however, in effect gives a much sleeker appearance and eliminates gunk and dirt attached to your cables - easier to clean your bike. However, do note that there might be some hassle in routing the cables, which is a once in a while job, anyway.

bottle cage bracket holes
This would essentially depend on your preference. Do you want your bike to be ultra light as it is? You could do away with the water bottles and use hydration pack instead. Or, do you want to have at least two bottle cages for touring? Perhaps you want at least one set of the holes to mount your hand pump bracket.

[Added 17.08.2015]
Take note also the location of the holes on the frame. Especially on small size frames where the front triangle is not big enough to mount a decent size of water bottle within it, the holes might be at the bottom of the downtube. A nice place to collect mud, sand and other stuff from the rolling front tire. Also applies for some full-susser frame designs, where the front triangle is packed with linkage and rear shock.

bracket holes for pannier rack
These are non essential for offroad riding, really. However, if you're considering to sport your bike with a pannier rack, they are needed. Check the seatstays for them, on both sides. Also inspect that there are at least one threaded hole near the slot for the rear wheel QR.


Wow... that's an awful lot of little details to look at, huh. Well, all for ensuring a good purcha$e, and minimal glitch in switching to that needed frame.

If I can part you a single tip, it would be best to buy a frameset, i.e. the frame with headset and seatpost clamp bundled together. Much better if it comes with the seatpost and spare RD hanger too. If you're buying a second hand item, ask the seller if he could throw in the FD as well. Saves you a lot of is$ues.

Thanks for taking your time reading up to this line.
Have a great day!
 
picture frame photo from Ikea
MTB frame in photos in case you're wondering is EPX Hollowpoint

RTW 19.10.2010 - Intense Training... kunun...

Jambori ECC Burung Hantu cuma seminggu lebih aje lagi. Aku dah terlepas beberapa kayuhan offroad, dan tinggal satu weekend aje untuk offroad. Makanya RTW jadi sesi latihan intensif lah.

 

Semalam aku kayuh, hari ni pun kayuh juga. Hollowpoint with full knobbies on road. Hehehe... saja buat susah diri. Esok, lusa, tulat? Tak tau lagi. Ok juga kalau keadaan mengizinkan.

 

Bermula dari rumah pagi tadi, juga dek kerana dah lambat siket, aku kayuh agak intensif jugak lah. Dah tu pulak, ada segerombolan anjing dok lepak-lepak baek punya kat tengah jalan masa kat Taman Masai. Memang nak kena bersedia untuk sprint lah. Alhamdulillah, semuanya berkelakuan baik-baik belaka masa pagi tadi. Depa pandang buat tak tau aje masa aku lalu kat tepi diorang.

 

Hasilnya, aku sampai pejabat dalam masa 33 minit termasuk dengan waktu menunggu 2 lampu trafik di Pasir Gudang. Perrhhh... Penat siut... tapi puas.

 

Stats today:

Out from home	0709	hours
Arrive office	0742	hours
Door-to-door	33	mins
Ride time	31'43"
Distance	23.4	km
Ave. speed	12.43	km/h
Max speed	39.0	km/h
Odometer	5292.2	km
Good doggies	7
Mode	Hollowpoint,	full knobbies

 

Terima kasih sudi berkunjung.

Dah daftar untuk Jambori ECC Burung Hantu?

Jumpa di sana, insyaAllah...

Shifter Replaced, and Made a Match

Avid Matchmaker installed, with (still clean and scratchless) new left X9 shifter pod.

Lotsa space on the handlebar.

 

I went to Kevin's shop on Saturday to send my SRAM X9 left shifter and see if he can repair it. The problem with it is that the upshift is sluggish and it doesn't spring back to ready for another shift. This happened quite some time ago. I put the problem to rest and replaced it with a Shimano SLX left shifter. A downhiller who sees no use to it sold me his. It was considered cheap, and it sort of matches with my XT FD.

 

Upon acknowledging my problem, Kevin did what I have dreamt of what retailers in Malaysia would do for a long, long time. Well, he didn't even attempt to fix the unit! Instead, he took my faulty shifter, and handed out a new left shifter from a SRAM box to me while saying, "you're lucky I have a last unit of this".

 

Wow! Until today I can't shake the awesome feeling off. A faulty parts replacement in an instant, no questions asked.

 

The other purpose of the shop visit was to see if I could get my hands on a pair of Avid Matchmaker. Well, as my problem for the shifter was solved there and then, the decision for the MM was made in an instant, too. I got the last pair in his shop, so he discounted RM5 further for me. I paid RM80 for an item that sits in my 'wants' list (starve the 'needs' list for now). Still okay, I guess. It's 19.99 pounds from CRC and USD19.99 from Art's Cyclery (just to name 2 overseas online shop) at the time of writing, excluding shipping (I like the Matchmaker description at Art's Cyclery page).

 

Now, I can mount a GPS unit, headlight, meter, bell, ride buddy toy figurines, videocam and shock lever pump on my handlebar.

:)

 

note: if you're mounting SRAM shifters and using Hayes Stroker brakes, you can use the Matchmaker, too.

Plentong Epic Ride 2010 - closing date 13 Nov

Update:

If you haven't registered yet, you still have a bit more than a month to do so. The closing date for registration is 13th. November 2010.

 

Also, the event is now supported by JKKK Plentong.

too many to write about

There are too many (by my standards) to be written on my cycling adventure, and as the cliche goes, there's not much time to sit down and write about it.

 

These past 2 weeks:

1. I went in Seri Alam Trail alone on a quiet Saturday morning

2. Got hold of 3 pairs of grips (yes, 3 pairs)

3. Joined a night ride in KL with GLC folks

4. I'm starting a new bike-related project (with a new blog)

 

1. The solitary ride

Marsya's birthday falls on Sunday 3rd Oct and Naza's holding a masak-masak makan-makan thingy for her colleagues who wanted to come over our place for Hari Raya's ziarah. Definitely I have to be at home and help with things around the house. So, I planned for a ride on the day before. Being a Saturday, not many riders around my area are going into Seri Alam. I planned with a friend to have a ride in Setia Indah but that didn't materialise. I needed the ride, so I went in alone just to have my fix.

 

Yes, I broke a rule.

 

I didn't get in too far though, just went down into 'jongkang-jongket' - not a teeter-totter, but a 500 m offroad 'stairs'. I went a little bit further to the pylon and I was a bit shocked to see how the palm oil trees are now brought down and cleared off the land. It's to make way for the development of UiTM Seri Alam. Sheesshhh...

 

All in all, I learnt that from my house to the jongkang-jongket and back in a loop is about 10 km. So, whenever I'm up for a quick fix, that'll be it. Perhaps an introductory offroad ride with Naza soon, too.

 

2. Got 3 pairs of grips

I received 2 of them from Element Cycle and another (bought) from Angah Bike Shack. All 3 are different and I'll be writing about them soon. Tried 2 of them already, and have to make time to install the other one on my RTW Machine.

 

What are they? Oh, you'll have to wait.

:)

 

3. Ride with GLC

I was summoned for a 3-day meeting in KL last week, from Tuesday to Thursday.

 

That means:

1. No RTW for that week

2. A possibility to ride with GLC on Wednesday

 

I contacted BC Kelolo for the second item, while I was not really bothered for the first for it would be nicely compensated. He agreed to lend me his shiny Kelolopoint with lighting and helmet. I packed riding apparels in my bag, with a pair of sneakers instead of SPD shoes (too dirty).

 

Wednesday night I went to Kelolo's place in Gombak and just when I turned into Taman Melewar, it started drizzling. Hmm... reminiscent of my previous ride with GLC (wow, that was nearly 2 years ago...). However, as we rolled out at Al-Esfan Bistro, the rain subsided and the 8 of us ventured to the heart of KL.

 

I really enjoyed the ride - the route (as always), the sampling of roti canai spesel at Selangor Mansion, the non-stop music (especially Boney M), and of course the company of riders.

 

I'd like to register my thanks here to the folks at GLC whom I rode with that night. Looking forward to my next one, be it if for another 2 years.

 

4. The new project

Yes, a new project. It'll be a long term one, insyaAllah.

No, it's not about me building a new bike, although that might be one of it.

Will let  y'all know in here when the thing got rolling.

 

Thanks for coming by.

Have a good week ahead.

Plentong Epic Ride 2010 - 28.11.2010

Details taken from this link:

 

The most awaited EPIC ride is BACK!!!. Plentong Epic 2010. This ride will cover 60km of nice trail cutting across various terrain in Plentong.

Beginners - Experts levels all are welcome to join us for this fun ride.

Please be invited to join the
...Plentong Epic Ride 2010 Johor Bahru

The Trail:
Over 60km of wonderful trails cutting across various terrains in Plentong, Johor Bahru with many new sections of fabulous single tracks.
Beginners or EXPERTS, THERE is something for everyone-fast fire roads, gorgeous single tracks, lung-busting climbs and adrenaline pumping downhill and the most important is, less tarmac and all are rideable, There is also a chicken loop for the not so strong RIDERS.

The details of the event as below:
Fee: RM45 / SGD20
Date: 28th Nov 2010 (Sunday)
Time: 7.00am - 4.00pm
Venue: Plentong, JB
___________________________________________________________

Tips:-
GPS Coordinate: (Location Registration)
N1 31.420 E103 49.242

Google Map Direction: (Best route for you come to us)
http://maps.google.com.my/maps/ms?msa=0&msid=112761637535849959268.0004671a2c6f5...

___________________________________________________________

Registration:- Is now OPEN

For online registration:
- Go to this link below and fill up the detail
- Once the fee is transferred do email to us the transaction references or bank slip as payment
- http://www.cyclemotion2000.com/epic/main.php

For team registration:-
- Download the form from the link below
- Fill up all riders details and email back to us the complete form together with the bank slip or any online bank transaction references
- http://www.cyclemotion2000.com/document/2010_Epic_Team.xls

Registration will be close on 20 November 2010

If you have any inquiry please do not hesitate to contact us. We are just a finger away.

___________________________________________________________

Contact Details:-
Website : http://www.cyclemotion2000.com/
Email : jbcyclemotion2000@yahoo.com

Joseph Neo : 6012-711 1091
Norisham : 6012-757 1077
Mulyazam : 6013-778 3606

Bank-in Account;
Public Bank saving account (4724-1845-31) Azhar Bin Mohd Ehwan - Malaysia
POSB saving (039-69980-0) - Singapore

Haji: Mari Mengumpul Duit

harga pakej haji THTS 1431H/2010M

sumber

 

Borak-borak dengan Mak pagi tadi, aku tanya dia berapa harga pakej untuk dia pergi kerjakan ibadah haji tahun ni.

Katanya, "dalam 10,000 camtu lah, hotel dalam 200 m (dari Masjidil Haram). Satu bilik 5-6 orang gitu lah".

 

Lepas tu Mak menambah, "itu tak termasuk (Bayaran Haji) yang Tabung Haji tu".

 

Bayaran Haji: Info kat laman web TH tahun lepas ialah RM9,980.Ada juga yang letak RM7,704. Apa pun, maknanya, tanpa guna kalkulator (mesin kira), lebih kurang RM20,000 jugak lah nak kena ada tu.

 

Ulp! Dah naik RM5,000 berbanding 5 tahun lepas...

 

Aku cuba juga tengok-tengok kat internet, betul ke macam tu. Betul lah tu, lebih kurang. Sebagai perbandingan, aku letak harga pakej yang Tabung Haji Travel & Tours letak untuk tahun ni (1431H/2010M). Ada kat atas tu (harga pakej dah termasuk Bayaran Haji). Link kat sini. Itu kalau nak kerjakan ibadah haji & umrah dengan selesa lah. Untuk pakej-pakej lain yang ditawarkan, rujuk sini.

 

Boleh saja kalau nak ikut muassasah, cuma lebih kurang RM10,000 dah boleh kerjakan haji & umrah dah, termasuk dalam kuota. Kira basic aje lah, dan keselesaan tak terjamin. Itu aje. Tapi kalau nak 'add-on' perkhidmatan khas di Arafah & Mina, ada disediakan. Rujuk muka 8. Apa pun, itu cuma minima. Kena juga standby duit untuk mereka yang ditinggalkan (termasuk lah rumah dan kereta - masih kena bayar tiap bulan juga tu), dan juga belanja runcit-runcit bila kat sana tu.

 

Pendek kata, mengerjakan haji & umrah itu memang kena ada duit puluh ribu punya. Tak murah. Dan, aku yakin kita mampu, kalau kita letak niat dan mula tabungan.

 

Dengan niat yang ikhlas dan bersungguh-sungguh tu, akan datang rezeki yang tak disangka-sangka. Tapi bila dah dapat tu, kena sendiri mau hingat le, jangan joli beli/hapgred beskal (atau kereta, renovate rumah) pulak.

 

Kewajiban haji

Rukun Islam yang kelima.

Wajib bagi mereka yang mampu.

Kupasan bagi 'mampu':

1. Berkuasa membayar segala perbelanjaan bagi mengerjakan ibadat Haji sehingga selesai dan kembali ke tanah air.
2. Ada kenderaan pergi dan balik.
3. Disyaratkan mempunyai bekalan yang cukup untuk saraan nafkah orang yang di bawah tanggungannya.
4. Tidak mengalami kesulitan teruk semasa berada di dalam kenderaan.
5. Aman perjalanan.
Manakala bagi perempuan pula ditambah: Terdapat kawan perempuan berserta wanita Islam yang boleh dipercayai.

sumber

 

Makin lama umur bertambah, kederat tak tentu lagi. Dan yang hampir pasti, kos makin meningkat.

 

Selamat beramal, serta mula pasang niat dan menabung.