my article is on baikbike.com (facebook)

Guys,

 

My article on brake levers is up on baikbike.com's facebook page.

 

Have a read (or re-read) on the facebook page, and give the article a 'like' (if you do, that is).

 

 

Have a good day!

 

ayuh kayuh!

Akmal Hizam

RTW 27.09.2010 - Momentum Needed

I prepared for this morning's ride last night, and I went out early. Alhamdulillah, I enjoyed this morning's ride for it's not hasty. More of a relaxed ride, and I noticed something very fundamental as I've read somewhere before.

 

My RTW Machine lacks momentum. Whenever I stopped pedalling, the speed would decrease quite fast (physics term: deceleration). Really, it felt so. I felt that I have to put in much effort to have the machine rolling at an average speed, compared to riding my mountain bike. With an mtb, I feel that I would glide and the speed is not hard to build up once acceleration has begun. On flats, that is. However, the effort put in climbing a gradient (although not that steep) is lesser than I would have with an mtb (even with slicks). As a result, my ride this morning was not as fast as my previous ones. The average speed is just near to 22 km/h. Granted it's a relaxed ride, compared to Hollowpoint with slicks, I registered more than that.

 

Well, these are in agreement with what I read in various sources (through the internet, of course), and logic. Lighter objects would lose their momentum faster compared to heavier mass (or weight). In climbing, effort is lesser taxed with lighter bikes compared with hauling a heavy one.

 

This being stated, I've never weighed my RTW Machine yet. Suffice to say, it is my lightest (and cheapest) bike so far.

:)

 

Stats today:

Out from home	0652	hours
Arrive office	0729	hours
Door-to-door	37	mins
Ride time	34'25"
Distance	21.8	km
Ave. speed	12.52	km/h
Max speed	36	km/h
Odometer	5091.8	km
Good doggies	4
Mode	RTW Machine,	relaxed

 

Thanks for coming around.

Have a good day!

 

When was your last ride?

Striking a Balance

[very much as a note to self]

 

I'm not like a couple of riders I know, whom spouses are riders too. Sometimes I do envy them (don't we all?). They have it easier, enjoying mountain biking. But hey, our lives are different, and we have to make do and adapt.

 

My wife would sometimes pull a long face while I'm getting ready for a ride. And I would be silent whenever she asks the question that she already knows the answer to,

     "what time are you coming back?"

I take it that she's wishing me "have a good time on the trails, and be safe iye Sayang. I'll have your lunch ready when you reach home with hugs and kisses too" without being too romantic and to keep it short that early in the morning.

 

It turns out that I'm not alone. That's why I'm sharing this article with you.

:)

 

by Bike198

How To Ride Your Bike Without Your Wife (or Husband) Hating You

Read the full article here.

 

***

my weblog:

A few of the Spousal Tips put forth therein works nicely for me (us), but the first one (Start Earlier) needs a LOT of effort from my riding buddies. The last ride I participated in was scheduled at 8.30 but we started rolling at 8.45 am. I would have to start memorising a few short trails and go ride by myself (okay, perhaps with one or two others for sake of safety) when the itch kicks in but not having the luxury of time.

 

As for the others:

- Get a schedule - lesser offroad rides for me now, when we agreed for me to go only during non-working weekends (I work on alternate Saturdays). That means only twice per month, but I got my fix through RTWs, so I'm quite okay with that.

- When you are at home... be at home - still working on it :)

- Flowers always work - yes, they do

- Set a time to be home (even though you will probably break it) - well, pretty much okay. I try to be home at around 1 pm and 'be at home' (see above). If I do go outside of my normal trail, I'll make sure wifey is notified of the slightly extended wanderings.

- Drive yourself to the trailhead - I usually ride the bike from home to the RV point, and get back home straight from the trail where we exit (usually around 1 pm). I cut the time by not having lunch outside, and no time required for strapping the bike to a car.

 

May our homes are blessed and hope that our lives are balanced.

 

Thanks for dropping by.

Have a good life!

Brake Levers - Which Side?

Avid Elixir CR - ambidextrous.

Cantilever - shown mounted RHS Front

V-brake - LHS Front

Shimano Deore M-595 - fixed LHS Front (shown RHS lever)

No matter what type of brakes you're mounting on your handlebar, you'll face this issue: Which side shall I mount the levers?

There are two options:

1. "LHS Front" - Left hand side (LHS) for front brake with right hand side (RHS) for rear.

2. "RHS Front" - Right hand side (RHS) for front brake with left hand side (LHS) for rear.

For V-brakes and some hydraulic brake models, the issue is solved for you. They are fixed to have the first option (LHS Front). Okay, you can say that you don't have options for these. For others, you're given the benefit of matching the levers with motorcycle style through the second option (RHS Front).

Hydraulic brakes hoses normally are pre-assembled to the levers and calipers and pre-installed with hydraulic liquid, giving you the no-hassle 'install and use' (or abuse).

V-Brakes

The levers itself for V-Brakes are never an issue. Cable changing is a walk in the park with V-Brakes. However, the system is deemed as fixed to use LHS Front, due to the location of the noodle hinge placement for the front brake. Located directly below the RHS lever, it's quite impractical to have the cable routed from the noodle to it. For a good cable route with a nice radius and kink-free, it is best to have it as LHS Front. You're left with having to adapt to this.

However, I've seen instances of Vs installed RHS Front, but the noodle is jutting outwards to the front and the cable is quite long it looks awkward.

Cantilever Brakes

Okay, it's a bit ol' skool and nobody I know still using this type of mechanical brakes. Basically, they are considered flexible. You can have the levers installed as LHS Front or the other.

This is due to its cable runs down to the middle in between the brake cantilevers. So, it's not an issue whether you want the front brake to be on the LHS or RHS.

Hydraulic brakes - fixed levers

The lever design is fixed, whereby one lever is for the LHS, and the other lever for the RHS. Usually you'll find that the default assembly of the hoses is for LHS Front. Examples are those from Shimano and Magura.

The lever design does not permit exchange of sides, so if you want to have it 'customised' to have RHS Front, you'd have to disassemble the hoses from the levers and switch between them. So far I've never dabbled on hydraulic brakes' hose and fluid, so I don't have any idea on whether it would be a messy affair whatsoever. Anyway, you can always have your LBS to help you with this.

Hydraulic brakes - ambidextrous levers

A number of brake manufacturers utilise flip-flop design, or ambidextrous, which means you can have the option of mounting the front brake levers on the RHS or LHS. Examples include Avid Juicy and Elixir; and Hayes El Camino, Stroker and Prime.

The pre-assembled sets look like the manufacturer knows what you want, whether you're a LHS Front or RHS Front guy. You'll say to yourself, "wow, they really know what I want".

To the manufacturer, this sort of design would lower down the production cost. Only one design for both levers.

Clever.

Why is this important?

Simply put, and primarily, it's for our safety.

The front brake is our prime stopper. It gives us more stopping power compared to the rear brake. Hence, we should be familiar with it; either to purposely use it to stop the bike, and more importantly to be aware of it - not to pull the front brake lever hard during a panic spell while going downhill (you get the picture).

My friend Gjoe was awarded with a few stitches on his chin due to this. He's a left-handed as I am (read: not normal. heheh...), and he's used to have the front brake lever on the RHS for his old 4-piston Shimano XT hydros. When he purchased his new XT hydraulic brakes, he's forced to use it as it is - LHS Front, as the brake sets came pre-assembled that way. Poor him, he pulled the wrong lever and ended up with stitches on his chin and scratches on the new brakes. Now, after the accident, he's changed the levers to what he's familiar with - RHS Front.

The other reason is for us to know our options and be prepared with any further costs ($ and time) should we need to have them modified to our preferences.

My way

I get around this problem by having it this way:

- LHS for front controls - brake and FD shifter

- RHS for rear controls - brake and RD shifter.

Okay, it is more towards fixed setting, since shifters are always LHS mounted for the FD, and RHS mounted for the RD. And, coincidentally, the same is for v-brakes. So I've got no issues on this, if I were to use Shimano hydros. Anyway, for the option freak me, I went with ambidextrous ones from Avid. Well, I bought because I got 'em cheap, primarily, and as a bonus, the design.

Also, I don't ride motorcycles because I don't have one, and that's primarily because I don't have a license (really, no kidding!). So, I don't have any issues with adapting the brake levers when I'm riding a bicycle or a motorcycle.

By the way, my Elixirs came as LHS Front. No twiddling necessary for me. Avid really knows what I want.

:P

The thing to be aware of

The moment you're getting yourself a pair of brakes, bear in mind and ask this question - what mounting option do you have with them, and does it suit your preference? If they do need some modification done to change the mounting side, you'll have to factor in the possible costs (time and $) for doing it.

I'd like to stress here that there's no fixed side for mounting your brake levers. As long as you're comfortable with it, go that path. It's your bike. You're the one who'll be riding it. After all, mountain bikes are built custom for fit, purpose and style; to the rider, riding style and personal preferences.

Which side are you on?

Added 03.11.2014: Do read this also, interesting fact and history.

Why Do Brakes Differ From Country to Country? 

photo credits:

Avid Elixir CR brake lever from mountain.bike198.com

cantilever brake from www.diaryofamountainbiker.co.uk

V-brake and Shimano Deore M-595 - mine

Tips

We all love tips, especially waiters and waitresses.

 

Well, I do too, but in my line of work, that kind of tips would be construed as bribes. Anyway, this is not about that.

 

Tips are  simple, cheap, tried and tested ways of doing things. Basically re-purposing non-special tools or bits, usually common things around us, to make our lives easier. You can say, for some instances, they are pocket and life savers.

 

***

Head on to:

http://www.diaryofamountainbiker.co.uk/mtb_tips.php

 

There are 10 tips (so far). They're practical, cheap and easy to follow.

 

Tips therein:

Tip 1 Talc up your tyres

Tip 2 Avoid cable rub - my favourite
Tip 3 Check your cleats
Tip 4 Freshen up your camelbak
Tip 5 Bite your bars
Tip 6 Repair torn tyres - I used this for a fellow biker during Batu Pahat jamboree

Tip 7 Keep your shades safe

Tip 8 Double Tube your tyres

Tip 9 Brush up on your cleaning

Tip 10 Stop squealing brakes

 

***

More tips in here:

http://www.klmbh.org/main/index.php/articles/15-miscellaneous/28-tips-for-the-home-mechanic

 

***

My one favourite tip that I picked up from an episode of CSI, as rhymed by Catherine:

'righty tighty, lefty loosey'

 

However, it is only applicable to standard threaded screws and bolt & nuts.

 

On a bike, these are on the reverse:

1. BB thread on the RHS (drive side) - for ISO/English thread

2. Pedal, on the LHS crank (non-drive side)

 

To remember this, use 'Pedal it right' - Right Hand Side pedal has the 'right' i.e. 'correct' (or standard) thread

and the opposite for BB thread.

***

 

Thanks for dropping by.

Have a good day!

16.09.2010 New Drivetrain

clean your drivetrain!

 

Following the chainsuck episode, I learned that the way it ought to be is that your drivetrain should be changed entirely when the time comes. New teeth (cassette and chainrings) would warrant new chain. In my case, the RD jockey wheels also need to be changed.

 

Uh oh, that means $. Big time.

 

My current drivetrain:

Crankset : Shimano Deore 2010 FC-M590-L 22/32/44T 170mm arm

Cassette: SRAM PG-970 11-34T

Chain: XTR/Dura Ace CN-7701 9 speed

Chain connector: KMC Missing Link 9 speed

RD jockey wheels: KCNC 11T sealed bearing

 

As you can see, the drivetrain setup is no more SRAM/Truvativ/XTR, but more of 'whatever goes'.

:)

 

Crankset

The chainrings on Stylo are a little bit worn out now making me suffer with chainsuck, and the Deore on Naza's bike has only run for less than 100 km and is sitting somewhat idle collecting dust. I intended to only swap the rings from Deore to Stylo, in order to make a cheap and simple change.

 

Prior to that, I've asked around for loose chainrings (22/32/44T), but none available and new ones are not cheap. The easier path is to buy new crankset (and it comes with BB too). A new Stylo Team 3.3 (not OCT) would be around RM400 (cheapest I found), a new XT would be around RM650, and a new Deore 2010 is between RM170 to RM200. Okay, Deore is out of the league there, but they're easier on the pocket, and more durable. However, I don't intend to spend $, hence I'm going the thrift option.

 

The big and middle chainring BCDs for my Truvativ Stylo Team and Naza's Shimano Deore 2010 are the same - 104 mm. However, the spider length is a bit longer on the Stylo hence it won't accept the big ring from Deore's. Well, it's not that simple after all. So, I took out Stylo from Hollowpoint together with its BB and Deore from Naza's Diamondback, and swapped them out. The process took me a good 1½ hours with cleaning and all. Also, I've read in a forum that the steel midring and granny on Deore are more durable compared to aluminium and people swear by it. Obviously there's the weight penalty, but I guess I could live with that considering the $ involved.

 

Cassette

I bought the cassette secondhand in a very good condition (very slightly used) to replace my old one a couple of months ago. No wear sign at all, so I consider that it is new.

 

Chain

My XTR/Dura Ace CN-7701 chain is worn badly now, and it's high time for a change. I'm still using CN-7701 chain to replace the old one due to it's zinc plated feature. That means it's easily cleaned and would not rust easily. XT's is with zinc plated outer plate, too. Moreover, I got a good price for the chain, so I grabbed it. Mind you that CN-7701 does not get a very good review on mtbr, but I've been riding with it and I can live with it. Perhaps if I'm able to do it diligently, I'll keep track of the mileage and wear of the chain. That'll be something nice to do and report in here.

 

Chain Connector

I'm a fan of chain connectors. There are a few brands available in the market - the original SRAM Powerlink II, KMC's Missing Link, and two other Taiwan brands. SRAM's tend to be sold at RM15 and KMC's at RM10. They're virtually the same, and I've been using KMC's for a couple of years now with not much of a problem. Why KMC? Well, the answer is obvious - the price is only 67% percent of SRAM's.

 

I admit that some people would have to get really acquainted to installing and removing the connectors, and many ended up cursing at them while nursing their bleeding fingers before throwing them away at the trailside and resorting back to using the good ol' chain tool and spare links. I don't have this problem, and I'm happy with not needing to whip out my chain tool.

 

If possible, I'll get the gold coloured ones. It acts as a marker for lubing my chain.

 

RD Jockey Wheels

The JWs on my 2010 SRAM X9 RD are turning into sharp 11 pointed stars already. After much research, I came to the conclusion that I could use KCNC JWs to replace them. The original ones are 'bushing, hardend' (that's what it says on SRAM's technical manual) with sealed bearings. KCNC's are using 7075 anodized Alloy.

 

Prior to 2010, X9 RDs are using JW with offset mounting for the top pulley. The problem that it poses is that the replacement JW is only available from SRAM and it's not an easy find at least in JB's LBS. I bought a pair for my 2008 X9, and it costed me RM70, from a prominent bike shop in Bandar Melaka. The 2010 X9 eliminates this, and I'm a happy man.

 

That means, I could use third party JWs such as KCNC's. Not for the bling factor, but more of their durability. A fellow rider has been using them for more than 2 years and the condition is still okay. Considering that it's CNC-machined from alloy and the chain rollers grinding on it are made of steel, I'd say that they're good.

 

Just my luck, I got mine from BBS slightly used (only 3 months according to the seller). The ad was posted early this week and I contacted the seller on Tuesday morning. Transfered RM40 and the next day I received the pair of 11T KCNC's. The seller works for DHL, so he waived the postage :)

 

first ride

As a note to self, the new drivetrain starts at odometer reading of 5016 km.

I went into Seri Alam trail yesterday with the new drivetrain setup, and I'd say it's a smooth ride. I didn't actually set and tune the RD properly and as best as I would have, only that it does shift okay with a little skip on the lower gears. However, I'm happy to report that I'm able to use my 11T on the cog now. Will have to further tune the RD for the best possible setting.

 

Well, that'll be after I've cleaned the bike. Perhaps some quiet time after all the Aidilfitri open house invitations.

 

make it better

Some riders are using 2 sets of chain and they swap between the chains after some interval. This reportedly results in longer chain life. I don't know if it is true.

 

However, we can also use these tips from KMC to minimise chain wear (and perhaps extend drivetrain life).

 

 

Thanks for dropping by.

Have a good day.

 

glossary of acronyms

RD: rear derailleur

BCD: bolt circle diameter

JW: jockey wheel

LBS: local bike shop

CNC: computer numerical controlled

BBS: www.bicyclebuysell.com

DHL: not dua hari lewat/lambat

 

 

Drool - Crank Brothers' seatpost and cockpit lineup

Iodine 3 stem - beautifully engineered

 

It was reported by Bike Radar mid April, so this is actually old news for some.

 

I've always been an admirer of CB's offering, but never able to be a proud owner of one. $ is a factor, surely. However, I've always enjoyed drooling over their products. Beautifully engineered mountain bike parts and accessories.

 

They are renowned for their pedals and accessories; then they churned out the wheelsets, quick release and adjustable seatpost; and now they've completed the portfolio of third party mountain bike parts with the cockpit. Unveiled were the stems, handlebars and grips; with rigid seatposts to boot.

 

For now, partly due to the parts are not readily available at LBS around JB (while $ being the other bigger factor), I can only imagine my bike to have these:

 

EPX Hollowpoint frame at current setup for the drivetrain, with:

Cobalt wheelsets

Iodine 3 stem - love the silding faceplate (Cobalt's I think is impractical - you have to slide the handlebar in)

Cobalt 3 zero offset seatpost

Iodine 3 handlebar - I'm used to a raised bar instead of flat

Iodine kraton grip - I think much better than the foam (are you kidding?), since their prices are the same.

 

Hmm... and put the bike on permanent display.

Heheh...

Well, dreaming is free, innit?

 

See the photo gallery on Bike Radar.

Head on to CB's website for the full lineup of gorgeous mtb parts.

 

 

Iodine 3 photo nicked from Bike Radar photo gallery

Selamat Hari Raya Aidilfitri 1431H/2010

RTW Club

(L to R): Yad, Akmal, Zul, Aladin, Rizal

 

Selamat Hari Raya Aidilfitri diucapkan buat semua.

Mohon kemaafan, lahir dan batin.

 

Terutamanya bagi pembaca jika ada yang tersinggung dengan apa-apa nukilan di sini.

Juga kepada pengayuh-pengayuh jika ada yang terguris dengan kelakuan aku di tengah trail dan sepanjang jalan berturap.

 

Dengan ingatan tulus ikhlas,

Akmal Hizam

 

 

photo credit: Zanariah Salam

RTWC photoshoot - 29.09.2010

Dua Ahad lepas kitorang ambik gambar kat Pasir Gudang. Tempat spesifik: Bukit Layang Layang.

Kat opis kitorang ada letak ruangan untuk Hari Raya Dedication. Rizal cadangkan geng beskal kat opis aku untuk letak satu. Kitorang setuju, maka hari Ahad tu pagi-pagi dah ada kat Bukit Layang Layang untuk photoshoot. Aku ingatkan hari Ahad bulan Ramadhan tak ada orang. Ada jugak, rupanya. Tapi rasanya tak seramai hari Ahad biasa kot.

Ada dua jurugambar: Zana dan Maman (guna D80 Yad). Jenuh juga diorang ikut kitorang jalan kaki sekitar kawasan tu. Hehehh...

Cuaca awal pagi tu mula-mula macam nak hujan. Sepanjang masa mendung. Dalam pukul 8.30 camtu, mula turun renyai-renyai. Aku memang terpaksa balik awal pun, maka sesi untuk aku berakhir 8.30 pagi.

Gila juga, pagi Ahad pakai baju melayu siap bersamping bersongkok bagai. Kayuh mountain bike pulak tu. Tapi sebab berlima, tak lah segan sangat.


 

gambar oleh Zanariah Salam, Maman.
lagi gambar dari album Rizal di facebook

Plentong Epic Ride is back - 28 November 2010

Aku jarang sangat singgah kat facebook. Tapi setiap notification memang aku terima lah kat kotak email aku. Baru sekejap tadi aku check email, ada ini:

Hi Guys & Gals,


We are pleased to announce that the epic ride is back this year!! and the date has been fixed on 28 NOV 2010....mark it down on the calendar and prepare for the epic...

Further info will be update soon...

Cheers,
David
Cyclemotion Johor Bahru

Ada seperkara yang pasti: susah nak dapat lesen untuk turut serta pada hari itu. Tarikh tu tarikh ulangtahun kesebelas perkahwinan aku dengan isteri pertama. Berani mau buat-buat tak tau? Maunya tak dapat lesen untuk sekurang-kurangnya lima tahun akan datang, dan jadi kes reference nanti. Jangan buat pasal...

Macamana pun, aku cuba untuk turut serta dalam hal-hal bantuan di sebalik tabir lah, macam tahun lepas. Pada aku local riders (yang dah selalu turun belasah trail Plentong, especially) sepatutnya turun padang bantu apa yang patut. Jaga checkpoint ka, recce ka, buat trail marking ka, apa apa aje lah. Memang banyak kerja nak dibuat. Tapi kalau nak join ride tu, silakan lah. Memang best pun. Tambah pulak rider dari area JB pun dah semakin ramai sekarang ni.

Aku rasa ada trail baru yang akan diperkenalkan, terutamanya menyusuri Tasik Layang. Korang akan terasa macam kat Lake District sekejap. Itupun kalau Kapt. Neo masukkan sekali dalam trail kali ini lah. Aku tak janji... heheh...

Maka aku di sini dengan sukacitanya memanjangkan jemputan kepada kalian yang jauh dan dekat untuk datang ke Plentong dan turut serta dalam Epic Ride ini tahun.

On! On!

Dino, BC, my offer from last year is still in good standing. Amacam? Mark your calendar, bros!

RTW 01.09.2010 - 5000 km and going

Due to certain circumstances, I have to RTW this morning. Well, that's good. So last night I prepped up a bit, and I thought of using the Hollowpoint with knobbies and all. I installed the Cateye meter sensor on board the cockpit, packed the saddle bag and mounted the hand pump on the frame. No bags or beam rack this morning. Ready to go, and looks like I could go offroad if I need to.

 

I went out early, at 0653 hours. It was hard to resist the temptation to speed up on flats and uphill, and so I did albeit a bit moderate compared to what I would usually crank up. Puasa kan...

 

Oh, and my odometer reached 5,000 km this morning. It would be a bit earlier during the Night Ride a few days prior, but during that time the Hollowpoint was without the sensor. I went from 4,000 km during late April to 5,000 km in early September. That's about 4 months of riding, or on average, 250 km per month. Well, that's pretty much with what I've calculated earlier. Anyway, that's including the jamboree rides and a few night rides which means, it is still quite an average to hit 250 km/month. Hopefully I'll reach another 1,000 km in another 4 months time insyaAllah. We'll see how it goes.

 

Stats this morning:

Out from home	0753	hours
Arrive office	0729	hours
Door-to-door	36	mins
Ride time	35'00"
Distance	21.2	km
Ave. speed	12.48	km/h
Max speed	34.5	km/h
Odometer	5004.1	km
Good doggies	3
Mode	Hollowpoint,	knobbies

 

Thanks for visiting.

Have a good day!

 

photo taken using Nokia 2330 classic.

nyiehh...

Cool Solo

I went to the LBS in Johor Jaya a couple of days ago for an (ehm ehm) 'upgrade' to the RTW Machine. Okay, Johor Jaya is not really that 'local' to Seri Alam. The shop owner, a young Kennt Ho brings in quite a good array of quality products. Among others: Trek (bikes and helmets), Gary Fisher, Kali, Topeak, Camelbak, Saris. I admire his tool board, too - a spread of Park Tools. My kind of stuff.

 

I saw this small plastic thing with straps perched atop a cabinet in the small shop - it's a Saris Solo. I've seen its siblings Bones 2-Bike and 3-Bike on the rears of a few Singaporean cars and in KL too, but that's the first time I've seen the Solo. And held it in my hands.

 

Designed for a single bike mounted on the car rear (max 35 lbs or 15.9 kg) , it appears 'questionable' due to being lightweight (close to 1 kg), largely because of its material. To quote from Saris' website: "100% recyclable, non-rusting materials". Basically it's plastic, some rubber material for the car/rack interface and nylon straps. It is small in size, too. Well, I don't have its exact size and footprint, but it's handy compared to my Cap Ayam steel rear rack.

 

I'm a bit skeptical on it's ability to hold the bike. Well, lightweight and sturdiness may not come together, unless the design is really optimised and engineered well. Plus, it's a rear mount rack, and that doesn't aid in gaining the confidence, for me at least. Also, it has only top and bottom secure straps. No straps for lateral security, and that worries me a bit especially for when the car is taking a corner. However, it is backed by a limited lifetime warranty. It warrants to the original consumer to be free from defects in materials and workmanship. Well, at least it offers some warranty compared to a Cap Ayam one.

 

Kennt told me that it is suitable for a short trip with car speed of around 80 to 90 km/h. Well, looks like it fits my criteria. Small size and lightweight. No moving parts - easily stowed in my small storeroom and quick mount on the car too. Looks simple, elegant and cool. Has lifetime warranty. Has no moving parts, except for the straps need to be tightened.

 

I use my Cap Ayam rack on the rear of a Proton Saga BLM, only occasionally because I usually would pedal to the RV point for weekend offroad rides. Most of the time it sits idle in the storeroom, or on a short loan to a friend. This might be suitable for me, on short trips around JB but definitely not on PLUS highway.

 

The price? RM200 at Kennt's shop. It is more expensive than the Cap Ayam ones (circa RM150), being able to carry only 1 instead of 2 or 3. It's an inexpensive solution compared to a Thule roof rack system which would cost me 10 times more. Anyway, that's not a really fair comparison with Thule for it's a different system altogether. What I'm saying is that it would work for me, but perhaps with a tweak with the lateral secure strap hacked from the Cap Ayam rack.

 

Will I get it? Hmm... not sure yet. The reviews on it are not so strong.

Anybody else has experience with it?

 

More reviews here:

http://www.amazon.com/Saris-Solo-1-Bike-Trunk-Mounted/product-reviews/B00352EPS8

http://www.bicycling.com/gear/detail/0,7989,s1-14-23-2979-0,00.html

http://bikereviews.com/2009/11/saris-solo-bike-rack/

http://forums.teamestrogen.com/showthread.php?t=37030&page=1

 

images taken from Saris and REI websites

Weight and Reaction

***

Weight

In physics,

weight (F) = mass (m) x gravitational acceleration (a)

expressed in unit kgm/s²

 

where,

(F) is in Newton

(m) is in kg, this is what we usually we refer to as layman's 'weight'

(a) is 9.81 m/s², a constant

 

As my physics teacher cautioned, do not attempt to bring this terminology to the wet market when you're buying fish, meat, etc.

 

For ease of discussion, I'll use the terms

'weight' when I actually mean to say 'mass', and

'force' when I actually mean to say 'weight'.

 

***

I often heard the notion that you don't have to spend your $ on lightweight parts for your bike, but instead just lose your body weight, or pack your hydration bag light. Basically, to make lower the rider's weight and/or anything clinging on the rider.

 

Reaction

In physics, this would only mean that the total weight that reacts on the ground (bike + rider + paraphernalia) is lighter than it would.

 

However, in the case of rider cranking the bike, that's a different scenario. The force needed to be exerted to the pedal is still high, due to the bike's weight.

 

So, if you empty your hydration bag, or lose your body weight, the reaction force is only reduced to the saddle (most of it), pedals and handlebars - the points where the rider + paraphernalia are supported. You still have a heavy bike to crank uphill, to push uphill during those steep (and/or long) climbs, or to carry on your shoulders (should you need to) during hike-a-bike.

 

While it might be nice to pack light, and a good thing if you're losing weight, those do not have anything to do with reducing your effort on a heavy bike, especially while riding uphill.

 

However, do not be discouraged to lose weight by riding a bicycle. You'll enjoy better health, toned body (especially sexier butt) and probably would gain more muscle mass. Or is it muscle weight? Whatever.

I Wanna Ride!

Today's the 14th day of Ramadhan and my rides are limited to 3 RTWs so far. Oh, and the short ride with Umar a few days ago.

I gave a miss the offroad night ride last Saturday in Plentong due to time constraint and (ehm) overfilling of the gut after a breaking of fast get-together at Naza's colleague's place. So far, I've never joined any on-road NRs, unlike the previous years.

 

It'll be a few more weeks before I could hit the trails. Perhaps the first ride in Syawal would be on Sunday 19th Sept. That's 10th Syawal. Or... it could be as early as 7th Syawal which falls on Thu 16th Sept - Malaysia Day! Amacam, Panjang? On on?

 

Meanwhile, I'm browsing my old ride photos collection, and enjoy the ride back home this evening.

 

***

Images | Breaking Rule Number One
There is an unwritten rule that mountain biking photos have to have a rider in the shot. Peruse the pages of any Mountain Bike Action and you'll find we stick by that rule. Except for today. Today is break-the-rider-rule day, because while there are no riders in these photos, try to look at them without getting the uncontrollable urge to throw on your hydration pack and hit the trail.

 

page and text from Mountain Bike Action December 2009, p.14

Umar Rides

I finally installed the baby carrier yesterday, and Umar had his first taste of free wind, riding with me in front of the house. Just a few short laps.
Hehe... I'm the one with the big grin, actually.

Well, after this the whole family could ride together around the housing area and the lake in front of Teratak Seri Alam.

photos by Marsya