Build Your MTB

I answered a question on Quora a couple of weeks ago, fresh from (re)building the XTC to be used by my neighbour for an upcoming short local ride.

For me, part of the joy in mountain biking is building the bike itself. From getting the parts right through to the actual assembly. I savour every moment. Except the hand cleaning at the end of each session.

Much of my knowledge about MTB assembly is from a good friend, BC Kelolo. I reached out to him before setting off on my first of many, many adventures and he unreservedly gave me good advices and tips. Over the years, I accumulated some more through my own readings, research, discussion with fellow riders and numerous trips to LBSes.

MTB evolves at a dizzying rate. I personally can't keep up with most of the tech (innovative or equally useless). Unfortunately due to this, there is a very steep learning curve if you're to dip your toe in building/assembling your MTB. So I only keep track with the ones that are particularly suited for my riding, $ and whatever I can easily source locally. There are one or two things that caught my attention, usually those which are practical and interesting to be tried out. And if my wallet could agree with them.

Many good riders I know are also good bike mechanics. The reverse may not be true, though. Anyways, knowing at least the basics about your machine would be good for you as a rider. Trust me on this.

Related links:
My answer on Quora - How do I build a mountain bike, from just the frame all the way to the trail?
Modern MTB - Spoilt for Choice
BC Kelolo's Anatomi Sebuah Basikal Gunung
My first adventure

22.05.2016 Troll's First Offroad

Troll's first taste of dirt

I wanted to know how it feels to ride the Surly Troll offroad, as it was meant to be. As a multi-purpose machine, I have ridden it for short rides to the market, around Seremban, and a long ride. Never before offroad.

I transfered parts from XTC to Troll after Fajr. It took me about 1½ hours to complete the transfer, some tuning and clearing some snags.

Drivetrain is 9-speed SLX with LX crankset as it has been on the Troll. I decided not to use the rigid fork; I used the Epicon instead. Unless I have a bigger front tire (2.3 at least) and tubeless, I'd try out the rigid fork.

riders at Pylon

At 8:00-ish, I cycled to TBS for the offroad ride with fellow Perpatih gang. With Remy, Kak Wan, Saiful and Abang Lias, we went into TBS offroad via Kacang. Then we ascended up to Pylon before resting at Leman Dawi with many helpings of its free refill Cendol. I cycled back home soon after we reached our morning rendez-vous point i.e. Petronas station at TBS.

me and my Troll

My Surly Troll is fun and I could feel the difference compared to the XTC. Troll is a bit heavier than XTC due to the frame material. I do feel a bit relaxed when descending. The other thing that I really felt was that the Troll's handling is snappy. It just kind of do what I intended to do without delay. Turns are crisp, and much more focused. More impressions after few more rides perhaps.

More photos in here.

Drop That Post!

Basically influenced by Dino's experience  with his manual dropper on his steel hardtail, I jumped at the opportunity to own a rather exotic dropper post offered by a friend's friend in Shah Alam. One of the best in the market though a bit dated and basic, Thomson Elite Dropper is golden (in finish too!). Anyway, due to restriction in $ and time, I delayed the purchase for a month. Luckily for me, the seller is not in an urgent sale.

I know that I don't have to think twice to own a Thomson given their reputation for quality and performance. Still, I read some reviews and watched youtube clips about it before getting my hands on this piece of top notch marvellous mechanical wonder. Simple, practical and best of all, it is maintenance free. I guess by the time I paid COD for the item its 2-year warranty period has lapsed. Not a bad thing for the price I paid, I'd say.

Primarily dropper posts are normally found (and perhaps expected) on Enduro bikes. Its weight at about 500-600 grams in a set comprising lever and cable/hose is a hindrance to have it installed on lightweight XC setups. I decided to put it on my already heavy Trance, hoping that it would add to the fun enjoying (mild) downhills.

I installed it the night before an offroad ride at Panchor. It didn't take me a long time to install (it's still a seatpost). I find that Thomson's simple saddle clamp design in particular makes it easy to adjust the position of the saddle - fore/aft and horizontal adjustment are dead easy.

there's still enough room for a bell,
but my thumb won't be able to reach it :)

However, my handlebar is now a bit cluttered with clamps at both ends; 4 on each - grip, brake, shifter and remote lever. There are 4 cables and 2 hoses sprouting out from the handlebar now, which is quite an overwhelming sight if I really look at it. Anyway, I wouldn't be bothered with it for now unless I want to revamp the whole drivetrain/brake/fork system as my next expensive tinkering/upgrade while getting the overall weight down a bit.

For now, call me Captain Handlebar.

A simple test ride around the neighbourhood past midnight after the installation was quite good. I love how the lever works. Press it down, and with my body weight the post drops all 125mm down in a smooth fashion. Press it again and the dropper goes up at a rate which is quite gentle to the bum (and balls). Depending on the rate of how the lever is pressed, the rate of the dropper going back up can be controlled. That means if I want to have it partially up, I just have to press down the lever up to a point where I needed the post to be. Simple and practical.

simple remote lever

Alas, there is one more item added on the handlebar, and one more decision to make on the trails now. Do I need to bring the post down? Should I bring the post back up? People who are using single chainring are now claiming that they are having one less burden of thinking about the front shifter (as well as the weight benefit). My Trance setup currently has everything. Triple front shifter, remote lockout for the fork, remote lever for the dropper seatpost, brakes and 10-speed rear shifter. I purposely didn't install a cyclometer on Trance to keep it as a fun bike. No need to bother myself on the ride data and such; rather relegated it to Strava on my smartphone (if it works correctly).

busy cockpit

Having the service of the dropper post on an offroad descend is a bliss. It is simply awesome. I am now talking about the dropper post in general. The benefits are as mentioned by Dino i.e. better control of the handlebar and the bike in general while descending. In order to lower my center of gravity during steep/technical downhill, I don't have to bring my butt to the back past the seatpost as much. This reduces arm stretch. Hence, reduced fatigue as well as having better play of the elbows. There is now a 125mm clearance on my bum to negotiate the bumps while descending so no worries on the saddle hitting my rump. The result: I could go faster. And I did, I think. That certainly brought more fun to the already fun Trance. Worth the dough and the weight penalty.

Now, about the weight...

Hmm...

Thanks for dropping by.

Enjoy your rides!

Dingle Speed

*I know that on the (English QWERTY) keyboard, the letter S is just next to D. No typo in the title for this blog entry.

dingle cog on a track frame

I just found out about DS yesterday. A simple concept, minimalist and practical. It is dual-speed single speed.
Yes, if you're thinking about bailing out while riding the minimalist single speed, this may be for you.

I'm keeping this entry simple, so you have to hop on to the links below as they are pretty much comprehensive.

Explanation (a good one):
http://wilddogbicycles.blog.com/dingle-speed/

More explanation, rationale and uses (or excuses):
http://dornochdingle.blogspot.my/2012/02/idea-of-dingle.html

Parts (from Surly):
http://surlybikes.com/parts/drivetrain/dingle_cog


Photo credit:
http://www.cyclofiend.com/cc/2007/cc267-philipwilliamson0307.html

Touring: Labis to Seremban (20-22.05.2015) - Prologue

[The Why]

One of the versatility of mountain bikes is that they can be used for road riding. On smooth tarmac. Just change the knobby tires with slicks and you can enjoy speeding on the paved road. Or go slow, and capture the essence of the environment as you roll along the road. For the slower you go, the more your senses could gather and enjoy. The sound, sight and smell.

Perhaps that's the essence and definition of bicycle touring for me. To soak in the environment via the paved road. By that, it also means that distance is not important, rather the route and the place.

 Latfy on a quiet road

Also, as eloquently put by Latfy:

When you travel from place to place

You will begin to realise in your own timely space

Living is not a rush nor it is a race

But breathing life at a slower pace

[The Where]

And so, a year ago I charted on Google Maps the route from Seremban to Plentong in Johor Bahru. Primarily on Route 5, the journey would be along the roads in towns across Negeri Sembilan, Melaka and Johor: Port Dickson, Masjid Tanah, Batu Berendam, Muar, Batu Pahat, Pontian and Masai. These are towns that I have been to, but only by bus and car. In sealed boxes with air-conditioning, rolling on four tires. No treat for my senses except for the sights passing by so fast from the windows when looking outside. Even so, the view is restricted when I'm in the bus for I could only see the view either left or right of the road (with a little bit of pain in the neck).

durians on a tree by the roadside

I wanted to experience the journey across the same road and enjoy the sight and sound of the places. The nice and beatiful traditional houses dotted along the road. The redness (and also yellow) of rambutans hanging on trees. The smell of durian by the roadside, and flowers too, as I stride along. Perhaps of equal joy is to feel and take in the breeze of fresh air as I pedal through the road under the shade of trees lining the empty road. But not under the piercing raindrops. Give me sunshine for I can still go on, but not heavy rain as it is safer to stop.

[The Hiccup]

The planned journey was stalled for a year as I encountered a few small obstacles. One which is very important is safety. The other equally important is a touring partner. The rest is to acquire essential knowledge for a self-supported and self-guided touring, along with the proper bicycle parts and equipment.

The initial plan was to go to PD from Seremban. That means going through Mambau's narrow and winding road, sharing with lorries. So yeah, that small bit made me put the plan on the shelf. Until I saw Rezar and a few more from Perpatih Cycling Community went out touring with their bikes to Singapore earlier this year. So I asked Rezar the route that they took to get to Melaka. It was through Rantau. Rantau is Perpatih's familiar route, being their training ground speeding along on road bikes every Friday night (I've never been with one, though). So that's it, Rantau could be the safe connection for me to cycle from Seremban to get to Melaka. It also means that I will be going through a nice place in Melaka which I really wanted to cycle on: Lubok China (especially Ramuan China Besar).

[The Who]

I've been spending time with Latfy during lunch hours and Friday prayers for quite some time lately. Primarily for (cheap, but good) coffee and sharing cycling stories among others. When I mentioned to him about the gap which is now sealed for the touring route, he exclaimed "aku nak ikut!" ("I want to come along!"). One by one things fall into their places. Alhamdulillah.

[The Change]

The initial route is now changed - Revision 1; instead of going to PD, we are going to Rantau, Linggi, Lubok China and Masjid Tanah to get to Batu Berendam. We'll stay for the night in Batu Berendam at my cousin's house and continue to Muar and Batu Pahat. One night in Batu Pahat and to Pontian the next day, sleep over another cousin's house in Rimba Terjun. The last leg would be to JB through Skudai, and finally to Plentong. The journey would be concluded with a train ride from JB to Seremban the next morning. 5 days and 4 nights, about 326km in total. It is deemed doable for I planned it to be at a pace of 15km/h average and not more that 6 hours riding per day. Perfect.

The route was conceived end of March 2015, and we checked our calendars to fit the days in. We agreed initially to set the date on 13th May. Some time in April we changed the date to a week later as Latfy's circumstances has changed. Early May, Latfy told me that he was offered a short assignment in Kedah which requires him to be there the next day after our long touring journey ends. I got back on the calendar and touring plan, and made a major revamp - Revision 2.

[The 2nd Change]

the revised plan

I did not intend to shift the dates again, rather to make it shorter. Heck, it would still embody the essence of why we are doing the touring. No problem. In fact, it is a pure win-win thing. And perhaps a blessing in disguise, for Allah's plan is bigger than ours.

So I took a fresh look at the plan, and fixed my eyes to Muar. We'll be spending the night there - at a homestay owned by Latfy's MIL. Then I looked at at the train schedule, together with Google Maps and saw how Labis could be our destination, en route to Muar. This warrants another big change, which is to go in reverse. A train ride to Labis, then cycle up to Muar and spend the night. The next day, cycle to Melaka and ride around the town before heading up to Batu Berendam for the night. The third day to Seremban via Sungai Udang, Masjid Tanah, Linggi and Rantau. 3 days and 2 nights, 211km in total (estimated with Google Maps). Perfect for a first touring adventure.

[The Parts and Equipment Hunt]

Kona Nunu

My RTW Machine (Kona Nunu) is the intended rig for the touring. The RiBMo tires are with visible hairline cracks now, so I asked around for a pair of good tires for replacement. Pak Ngah Ishak of Sungai Pelek responded, offering for Schwalbe Marathon Plus. The tires are simply awesome. I also changed the SR Suntour Raidon suspension fork with a Surly Troll chromoly rigid  100mm corrected fork. The other essential gear that I got for touring is a pair of panniers by Eiger. It's not Ortlieb, but does the job just fine. They are for front, but I use it for the rear (only one, though, together with an Ibera top bag). I got it quite cheap, bought by a good friend who went to Bandung. I also bought a Topeak long water bottle cage which could house a normal 1.5L PET bottle. It is more like a drinking water storage rather than a water dispenser. For a dispenser, I fixed a normal bottle cage on the Troll fork and use a 750ml cycling bottle. And the final essential item I (re-)installed the bike stand which came originally with the bike.

#LabisToSeremban

Full set of photos (in fb album):
here

Jump to:
Day 1: Part 1 - Seremban to Labis
Day 1: Part 2 - Labis to Pagoh
Day 1: Part 3 - Pagoh to Muar
Day 2: Part 1 - Good morning, Muar!
Day 2: Part 2 - Muar to Melaka
Day 3: Part 1 - Batu Berendam to Pantai Puteri
Day 3: Part 2 - Pantai Puteri to Seremban

Modern MTB - Spoilt for Choice

When I started mountain biking in 2008, the bicycle used to be simple. Apart from the riding discipline, there are not many complication in deciding what kind of bike you're going to buy or upgrade to.

For instance, it is either hardtail or full suspension (FS). And FS would most likely lean towards All-Mountain (AM) or Downhill (DH) with a few exception to XC.

The rest are quite standard.

Nowadays, true to the sport's nature (and industry), evolution and solution to specific needs have been churned out quite rapidly  thus giving a broad spectrum of customisation. And with that, limitations to a big extent. Hey, this is mountain biking, after all. You ride a rig that's suitable with you and your type of riding.

These are the choices (or limitation) that you could have in assembling your bike that I have thus far collected (except fat bikes, and the list may not be exhaustive):

• Wheel size: 26", 650B (aka 27.5") or 29".
• Headset/Headtube/Steerer tube: 1 1/8" top and bottom, 1 1/8" top and bottom tapered 1.5" or Giant's Overdrive2 (OD2) 1.25" top with 1.5" bottom.
• Bottom bracket: Square tapered, Shimano external, ISIS, SRAM GXP, BB30, PF30, BB86, BB92, BB79, BB386EVO.
• Rear Shifter: Matching SRAM shifter with RD, matching Shimano's shifter with RD (SRAM's Attack shifter can also do the job, but rare nowadays and limited to 9s).
• Drivetrain: 8/9/10 rear cassette and matching chain
• Drivetrain (11s): 11 rear cassette (XX1) with matching XD Drive hub, 11s shifter, 11s chain and single chainring (a really restricted grouppo).
• Gear combination: 1/2/3 chainring coupled with suitable cassette (see Drivetrain)
• Stem/Handlebar diameter: 'standard' Ø27.2 or oversize Ø31.8 (seems to be the standard nowadays, overtaking 27.2) and relatively newer Overdrive Ø35
• Stem/steerer tube interface: standard 1 1/8" or Overdrive 1.25" (related to: Headset/Headtube/Steerer tube above)
• Fork end: QR 9mm, TA Maxle (15mm/20mm/DH).
• Rear axle: QR 9mm, TA 10mm, DT Swiss/Maxle Lite 12mm (check that your rear fork end 'over locknut distance' is 142mm for through axle).

Phew!
Anything else I've missed out?

SRAM X9 10 speed

SRAM X9 10 speed: 3x12 setups to choose from

Since 10 speed is gaining users (some due to push factor and advertisement, I would say), it would be nice to try it out myself. Zack reported good experience with X9 RD & cassette with XT 3x10 crankset - smooth operation being the news.

Problem is, there are too many configurations to choose from for X9. Either 2x10 or 3x10 configuration, and a choice of 12 different 10 speed cassettes.

Q: Why X9, not X0 or XX?

A: Mampu milik, mid range

Any bike shop would want me to test it out?

Wouldn't mind if you supply me X0 or even XX instead, though.

;)

Note: cassette tooth count info taken from here.

Seatpost: Giant vs Thomson

This is my report on my search for suitable (and as always, cheap) seatpost for my Trance. If you're not interested in finding a comparatively similar 30.9mm diameter seatpost to Thomson Elite, you may skip this.

:)

Giant Connect SL 30.9 seatpost

Giant frames that I have in my stable, Trance and Yukon Disc, are both requiring 30.9mm seatpost. That's the main important criteria of the search. Alongside, weight is also considered. Of course, the equally important factor, price tags are looked at. So that's two of Keith Bontrager's famous quote.

I have been wanting to own a Thomson Elite, much because they are light, beautiful, strong (although there's no empirical data on this); and the snob rights. "Thomson make parts for Boeing and Ford, too, you know..." would definitely gain envious smirks. Oh, I'd get a sticker and nice seatpost bag too.

Except for one thing: the price. Thomson Elites are generally in the RM300 range (USD99.95). You could find slightly less than RM200, but used item. From BBS, of course.

Anyway, from Thomson's wide range of offerings for their Elite type, the one suitable for my frames is SP-E128. Weighing at 243g for Ø30.9 x 367mm. So, that's the one to be compared with.

Not much are being offered by other third party manufacturers, and the one that is relatively easier for met to get is Giant's seatpost now that Jason's shop is stocking on Giant. I asked him for the price, and he told me that it would be less than RM100 for the aluminium ones.

I checked with Jason two days ago, the price for carbon Contact SLR is around RM200. Well, it's obvious that Contact SLR is out of the question for me. One, the price. Two, I'm not fond of carbon parts. Three, it's not aluminium - then it would not be a fair comparison to Thomson's (okay, there are actually only two reasons).

From Giant's 2011 catalog, there are 3 aluminium seatposts in their range, for mtb:

1. Contact

2. Connect SL alloy mtb

3. Connect

Details are as in the comparison table below:

  

The closest to Thomson's SP-E128 is the Contact seatpost. It weighs 243 grams, straight or setback. Contact is only 7 grams heavier. I'm not sure if it would be the same as Thomson's if the extra 7mm length is shaved off. Strength wise (being the other factor in KB's quote) I'm not sure with, as there are no data to support. However, looking at the material, perhaps it is safe to say that they are more or less the same. Thomson states that the material is of 7000 series al, while Giant's is of 7050 al forged single piece shaft.

So, my choice is clear then. Contact it is.

One problem, though. Jason didn't have it last 2 weeks. And none of the bikes on display in his shop has it. I didn't want to wait. That would be another 2 weeks, while I've waited 3 weeks already. So I went with the next best - Connect SL Alloy MTB. RM90. A third of Elite's price. Not too bad, I'd say. At only 35 grams heavier. Sheeshh...

the blue anodized rail clamp,
with side single bolt adjusment

The comparison cannot be made apple-to-apple, entirely. Giant's are without straight ones, but only a slight setback. Thomsons are either straight or setback. Saddle adjustment on Thomson's is via 2 bolts, while only 1 for Giant's at the side which is pretty convenient. Thomsons are either silver or black (read: boring), while Giant's has anodised blue bit up on the rail clamp (not that it is very visible). And I can't say to people that Giant makes parts for Toyota or Airbus too (good, I won't be a snob then).

Oh, I don't get a nice seatpost bag, or sticker when I bought the Connect SL seatpost. Never mind, for half of the parts on the Trance frame has 'GIANT' printed all over already.

Including my new seatpost.

:P

Cheap? Yes.

Strong? Hope so.

Light? Yes.

I'm a happy rider.

Have a nice day.

Thanks for reading my report.

Besides Giant, Specialized also use 30.9mm seatposts.

Weird people.

Raksasa Berekor Lembut - Kayuhan Pertama

seksi, bukan?

 

02.02.2011

Seharian juga aku menyiapkannya, sebab memang santai sahaja (dan dibantu Umar, aprentis yang setia, sebaik sahaja dia bangun dari tidur. Banyak masa diambil kerana hos kabel penukar gear harus dibuat baru. Alhamdulillah, tiada kecederaan dompet mahupun anggota badan berlaku.

 

Tak banyak benda yang baru pada basikal ini, melainkan kerangka, handlebar dan batang pelananya sahaja. Selebihnya diambil dari Hollowpoint, dan FD dari Yukon. Tapi rasanya macam BB perlu ditukar baru. Kalau dapat warna merah atau biru anodised, cantik juga... Dah alang-alang menukar tu kan...

 

03.02.2011

Kayuhan 13km untuk menguji kebolehan, kekurangan dan keistimewaan. Juga untuk menala dengan lebih baik untuk kayuhan yang optimum.

 

Batang pelana aku letak pada mulanya 4cm lebih rendah dari sepatutnya, maka kayuhan terasa sangat memenatkan. Pabila dianjak tinggi sedikit demi sedikit, kayuhan semakin selesa.

 

Geometri kerangka rasa serasi, tidak pelik. Ada terasa seperti t-bolt juga terkadang, cuma tiada pedal bobbing. Aku masih lagi menyesuaikan diri dengan sudut headtube 69.5° yang agak condong berbanding kerangka XC 71°. Apapun, aku tak berasa kekok.

 

Datar

Agak memenatkan. Mungkin kerana berat? Berat keseluruhan binaan adalah lebih kurang 13 kg (ditimbang dengan bathroom scale sahaja). Tapi rasanya tidak, kerana Hollowpoint berserta Ibera Pakrak beratnya juga lebih kurang begitu. Tepat tekaanku, tayar depan dan belakang yang terlalu lembik (25 psi) membuatkan kayuhan terasa lembab dan memenatkan. 30-35 psi adalah lebih selesa, sambil memberikan cengkaman yang memadai.

 

Aku dapat berkayuh lebih selesa dengan kurang rasa sakit di bahagian belakang. Bonggolan dan lubang kecil sepanjang jalan datar diserap hentakannya. Tiada lagi terlambung-lambung.

 

Memanjat

Aku terpaksa menganjak ke hadapan sedikit di atas pelana untuk menyeimbangkan kedudukan badan. Mungkin kerana sudut batang pelana 73.5° yang membuatkan ia sebegitu.

 

Setelah semakin agak serasi dengan sifat geometrinya, memanjat bukit terasa sedikit lebih sedap berbanding biasa. Ini aku akui, dan sama seperti yang diperkatakan oleh pengguna sistem suspensi Maestro yang lain (Anthem, Trance).

 

Menurun

Tentunya terasa lebih sedap, habis semua lubang dan bonggolan aku ratah sebolehnya. Tetapi, tetap tak laju, sebab memang aku tak berapa mahir bab downhill ni. Yang ketara, aku rasa lebih selesa dan yang pentingnya, lebih yakin. Seronok? Semestinya. Menurun bukit sambil tersenyum lebar.

 

 

Secara am, keseluruhannya tiada apa yang aku tidak suka. Cuma perlu ambil sedikit masa untuk menyesuaikan diri dengan geometrinya. Setakat ini masih lagi berhati-hati, terutamanya ketika di bahagian yang memerlukan kawalan teknikal di bahagian hadapan.

 

Satu perkara yang penting untuk dicatat di sini ialah FD untuk kerangka ini perlu menggunakan jenis low clamp, terpasang pada bahagian bawah seattube. Ini kerana FD high clamp akan berkedudukan di bahagian berliuk pada bahagian tengah seattube dan akan membuatkan sudutnya tersasar pada crankset. Nasib baik ada FD low clamp pada Giant Yukon sebagai penyelamat.

 

sedikit gambar di sini.

raksasa boing boing

100%

 

err... bila buleh nak pasang ni?

Epicon Travel Adjust

have Epicon, can change travel (short or long)

 

A friend bought an Epicon for his hardtail and emailed me asking whether is it normal his fork being a bit stiff. Typical me, I answered him with some links and diagrams. For that, I had to google around and with that I stumbled upon other things as well.

 

Here is one of them, which is quite interesting: How to Adjust Epicon / Axon Fork Travel. The page is complete with diagram and step-by-step instructions, plus tips to boot, too. Interestingly, Aaron mentioned that Epicon's travel can be adjusted from 80 up to 140mm (at 20mm intervals). That's something I didn't know before this.

 

120mm on my current Epicon is a bit high for my hardtail XC setting; I feel a bit giddy. Getting it down to 100mm would be ideal, I suppose. There are a few things that I need to have before attempting to get my fork travel down to 100mm, though. Torque wrench, grease, pin driver and bench vise - I dont' have them. Perhaps a few hours doing it at an LBS would be the thing to do.

 

Oh, how I love my Epicon much more now.

<3

:D

 

Have a good day, and ride safe (short travel or long).

;)

Thanks for coming over.

 

 

image taken from Aaron's How To page

Giant Yukon - the upgraded RTW Machine

Essentially, the Schwinn Mesa needs to be replaced. Its headtube has cracks, visible hairlines. I got a good deal for a secondhand (read: cheap, with scratches and cable rubs) Giant frame from Kennt's shop in Johor Jaya. A complete frameset with FSA headset, seatpost and seatclamp.

It's a Giant (original frame!) Yukon Disc 17" frame. Although it is a 'disc' frame, it sports the Vee-brakes bosses bracket. The colour is orange (or persimmon, or satsuma or tangerine or pumpkin pie or 'red-yellow fusion') and white (or milk).

Other parts are salvaged from the Mesa, except for a few upgrades, i.e. handlebar and stem, grips and fork.

orange milk in full RTW mode

Frame
The frame has what I want in a frame for my RTW Machine, and a bit of a bonus too - something that Giant has thoughtfully put in. There are two water bottle bracket eyelets. The necessary eyelets for pannier rack mounting are on the wishbone sides of the seatstays and near the rear dropouts. Also, to my surprise, there are options for putting either cable brakes (mech or Vees) or disc brakes. What I mean is that the bracket for cables and hose can cater for both at the same time. Instead of three (two for shifters, one for rear brake), there are four - two for shifters, one for cable brake and one for brake hose (hydraulic brake) or full length mech cable housing. How thoughtful.

options for cable/hose

The other thing that suits my specs perfectly is that the cable routing sits below the top tube, for all the cables. That means, the FD is pulled from the top, and cable is free from dirt. Also, the top tube is clean looking. I can also mount a top tube bag if I want to.

The only fret for me is the seatpost size. It is 30.9mm. Fortunately, the seatpost and clamp are offered together so I don't have to fork out extra $ for them. Albeit, the Giant seatpost is a bit weighty (ahem! Thomson).

XCR and DeFender M1

Fork
The rigid fork measures 16" from the hub to crown race, whereas my Epicon on the Hollowpoint is 19". The headtubes are almost the same, hence when using the rigid fork, my posture is a bit lowered. Not quite comfortable for me, and more so I foresee if for touring. Hence, I went for a cheap alternative with options thrown in (together with some added weight of course). An added bonus is that the fork is white (or milk), which blends nicely with the frame.

SR Suntour has this knack of giving what I need, affordably. Got the 80mm XCR with lockout (not remotely) and Vee posts for about RM200. The hub to crown race length is 18", so it is not too lowered, and quite upright for me to ride.

cockpit full to the brim

Cockpit changes
I bought the set of Giant handlebar and stem solely to match with the frame and seatpost (hey, and the saddle too). It's 620mm wide and 20mm rise. The stem is 75mm. They are oversize 31.8mm diameter set. It seems that the bar is not as wide as I would like it to be, and the set is a bit weighty. Also, with the levers, shifters and brackets for lights, meter and bell mounted, there's little space left on the bar. Perhaps I'll transfer the Truvativ XRs for the familiar feel and space, but that would be later.

BG!

The other upgrade that I made is the grips. I opted for the Specialized BG Ergo lock grips. Angah brought them in from Singapore, for none of the LBS has them, except for the Spesh boutique in KL. The price is the same. The grips has wings and it feels like having varying density - soft on the wing edge and firmer on the body, this is due to the design geometry itself.

What I like about them is the quality, and the feel. My hands are relaxed with these on, together with BG gloves that I wear now. Coupled with the more upright position due to the higher fork, I am more relaxed now. Well, perhaps with a wider handlebar, it would be better. Hehe... still have some tiny room for upgrades, eh.

I have to mention that Spesh packaged the grips very nicely. It comes with the end caps and a 3mm hex key. It is somewhat hidden at the back of the hard plastic board. I don't install the end caps because the bar ends are quite thick thus leaving small diameter for me push in the caps.

Wheelset and tires
I had to go with the (suspected fake) Mavic 719 rims and Formula hub rear wheelset because the unnamed, lightweight wheelset (with Novatec sealed bearings hub) from Mesa is not centered when I mounted on the rear. The issue is with the rear brake, slanted too much it looks awful. Too lazy to change the tires, I left the RiBMo rear tire on the unused wheelset, and go with Conti Sport Contact ready with the 719. Anyway, I feel that the RiBMo does not give enough contact, it feels slipping on spreads of tiny rocks on the road.

So there it is, my new clean looking RTW Machine.
Upgrades? B-17 still is in the list. Later lah...
:)

more photos in here.

Skyway Decals?

Skyway TA 25th Anniversary Frame

Anyone can help me with the decals? I'm thinking of slapping 'em up on the Hollowpoint, for old times' sake.

For the record, I've never owned a Skyway. Just borrowed one from my neighbour siblings Apai, Anis & Atei. Man, I love the tubing.

I was thumbing through the Rad clips on YouTube, and watched the Helltrack race. There was a rider wearing Skyway jersey, and blam!, I think it would be nice to put the retro decals on Hollowpoint's downtube and headtube since it's pretty naked right now (yup, it's pretty as it is).

Don't want to be a wannabe, putting up Santa Cruz or Trek or Cannondale or whatever else on my Hollowpoint. I just want it to be personal. Why not Hollowpoint decals? Well, I've emailed people from EPX requesting for some, and a guy from Malaysia who apparently did get something from EPX, but mine still unanswered.

Anyway, I'm happy with riding an 'unnamed' unpainted mtb. Some even asked me, is that Ti frame? Hehe... I wish.

The Skyway 25th Anniv. frame story here (2008). Interesting.
Also,
http://bmxwheels.com/SKYWAY/index.html
http://bmxsociety.com/topic/24007-skyway-ta-25th-anniversary/

Frame Considerations

gorgeous white painted, not the frame in discussion

You're a newbie and you've found out after a few rides that there's something wrong with your frame. Most of the time it's actually your inner wants are at play; and your head is telling you that a certain frame brand or design is much better than what you're having now. Well, if you want to switch to a new 'better' frame, that is your choice. The same also applies to a seasoned rider, but I trust that it would be more of a 'need' thingy.

Frame switching involves a lot of attention to details because that's the center of the build itself. All parts are connected to it. Okay, well, except for fork, stem, cockpit, front wheel, but you get my drift.

First off, there's the type of frame that you want to have, either a hardtail or full susser. You also may consider the material of the frame itself, be it carbon fiber, aluminium (of various grades), titanium, scandium, unobtainium (okay, that's too exotic). Then you have to look at the geometry that suits you. These are mighty important.

What's important just as well, but to a bit lesser degree (just a tiny bit) are the details on the frame.

You have to look at the:
headtube length
headtube construction (for the headset type)
BB shell length
BB type
RD dropout
V-brake bosses
disc brake mounting tabs
seatpost size
seattube size
cabling brackets
bottle cage bracket holes
bracket holes for pannier rack

I won't discuss about the frame types, materials and geometry. You have to look elsewhere for those. What's seldom being discussed are the other details as listed above (in no particular order of importance), and let's take a look at them. Here we go...

headtube length and headset type need to be looked at,
also note the cable brackets are on the top tube side for this frame

headtube length
If you're switching to a new frame and intend to use your existing expensive forks, then you have to measure the new frame's headtube length. Different frames would differ sligtly. You have to add spacers below your stem, or cut your precious fork's steerer tube to accommodate to a shorter headtube. If the fork's steerer tube is short by more than 5mm after stem is installed (without any spacers), that's a sure indication that the headtube length is much longer than your current. You have to look for other frames with about the same headtube length as your current one, then.

headtube construction (for the headset type)
If you intend to re-use your headset on a new frame, then the headtube diameter and type shall be looked upon. The 'standard' diameter size is for a 1 1/8" headset. The newer standard, usually for a much burlier frames is 1.5" e.g. freeride, downhill. [Update 17.08.2015: Also, it is now common for frames intended for 650B (27.5") and 29" wheels to have tapered 1.5" bottom with 1 1/8" top headset]. There's also the smaller 1" diameter, but these are no more common for mtb frames.

There are also many different headset types - normal, internal and integrated. You have to know what's on your current frame, and compare that with your replacement frame.

BB shell length for this frame is 68 mm, note the spacers used

BB shell length
Usually English thread BB are found on mtb frames, either 68 mm or 73 mm length. In the case of external BB, you need to put two 2.5 mm spacers on the drive side, and one spacer on the non-drive side if the frame's BB shell length is 68 mm. Keep the spacers neatly in your spares box if the BB shell length is 73 mm.

Check your BB spindle length in case it is the square taper or ISIS spline or Shimano Octalink. It has to match your BB length, or you'll have issues with your chainline/shifting.

RD dropout, note that there are no threaded holes provided for pannier rack mounting

[Added 17.08.2015]
BB type
There is a plethora of BB types now, as technology is expanding and components are refined to suite riding styles. Check what is your current BB type and the new frame you intend to use. If they are directly compatible, you don't have to spend $ for adapters (if available) to get a new BB altogether. Mind you, it goes without saying that the crankset follows the type of BB that you're using. So take some time to dwell into the subject and if you haven't, put the extra $ required in your budget.

RD dropout
Nowadays, frames come with replaceable RD hangers. Always get a spare RD hanger when you're getting a new frame, and put it safely in your riding bag as an emergency spare. Especially for long, epic rides, you'll never know when you'll need them.

who da boss?
also note that there are no pannier rack mounting holes on side of the seatstay

V-brake bosses
If you intend to run disc brakes on your bike (the norm now), then you can do without the bosses. However, if you're planning on using V-brakes, then obviously you have to have the bosses on the frame. Make sure that the bosses are there, or you have to make a separate purchase (seldom is the case, though). I've learnt that there are 2 sizes of bosses, so make sure you know which one to get.

disc brake tabs - a norm on modern frames

disc brake mounting tabs

If you intend to run V-brakes, then this is not important to you. However, it is best to have it for future upgrade should you feel the itch. Be careful while admiring a fellow rider's rig, and if you're feeling 'left out' as being the only rider in the pack with Vees (or cantilevers, for that matter). If you're using disc brakes, then you should check for the tabs. Nowadays frames come with the tabs, but do check when you're getting NOS (new old stock) frames sold cheap, or for that vintage quality.

seatpost size
You may need to lay rest your current seatpost if the size is not the same as your new frame's. Also applies to your seatpost clamp. Be careful also to note the seatpost size on your new frame, whether it is easily available currently.

A friend of mine has to source out on ebay and pay extra, because the seatpost for his frame is rare nowadays. Well, his is a vintage mtb frame, anyway.

Also, look at the seatpost clamp slit, whether it is on the forward or facing the rear tire. It is better if it is facing forward - reduced tendency for water or mud to seep in from rear tire spray while rolling.

the cable routing for the FD on this frame is from top,
the FD is XT down swing but can handle top routing as well

seattube size

This is directly related to the seatpost size, but the concern is more on the FD clamp. Usually the FD has spacers to adapt for different seattube diameters. You would need them if your new frame's seattube diameter is smaller than your current one.

I have tried using DIY spacers (inner tube, metal sheets), but of course, always the best path is to use the specific spacers supplied with your FD. Get them from the bike shop if you don't have them. Use your charm, and you could get them for free.

[Added 17.08.2015]
These days, added to the already many types of FD mounting for MTB is the direct mount type, borrowed from road bike norm. If your new frame has this, then you need to fork out extra $ for the new FD. Ask the seller (if bought secondhand) to have this in the package so you're saved from the hassle of getting a new one.

In the case of a full-susser, many frames are having specific type of FD mounting style. Some even require you to use a Shimano E-type which is uncommon and rare, if not hard to find at your LBS.

cabling brackets dictate your cable routing
my favourite - running on toptube sides or under it

cabling brackets
Look at your riding buddies' frames and you would see that their cable routings for brakes and shifters vary. Some have it railed on the top of the top tube, some have it a the sides of the top tube, some running beneath the downtube, and I've seen a frame with routing threaded into the top tube, on its sides.

There are advantages and disadvantages on routing the cables a certain way. Some would save you on cabling hoses but exposing your cables to dirt. Routing your shifter cables underneath the downtube (usually bare for a length) would certainly be the case. Check that the frame comes with the plasic guide on the bottom of BB shell if the routing is underneath the downtube. Routing the cable on top of the top tube would rob you the space to put a utility bag such as this Topeak Tri Bag.

Cable routing would also affect the type of FD clamp. Usually for bottom routed cable, the FD clamp would be the high type (down swing) and low clamp (top swing) for top routed. Anyway, check if your FD could handle both cable entries. You're $afe if it is. The same goes for E-type FD (Shimano). Note: those Shimano XTs in the links are of Dual Pull Technology - they can take either routing.

[Added 17.08.2015]
New generation MTB frames are having shifter cables routed through the inside of the frame itself. This in my opinion is a cost cutting exercise for the manufacturer. There are no extra parts for the cable routing brackets, only some rubber bits for covering the hole. This, however, in effect gives a much sleeker appearance and eliminates gunk and dirt attached to your cables - easier to clean your bike. However, do note that there might be some hassle in routing the cables, which is a once in a while job, anyway.

bottle cage bracket holes
This would essentially depend on your preference. Do you want your bike to be ultra light as it is? You could do away with the water bottles and use hydration pack instead. Or, do you want to have at least two bottle cages for touring? Perhaps you want at least one set of the holes to mount your hand pump bracket.

[Added 17.08.2015]
Take note also the location of the holes on the frame. Especially on small size frames where the front triangle is not big enough to mount a decent size of water bottle within it, the holes might be at the bottom of the downtube. A nice place to collect mud, sand and other stuff from the rolling front tire. Also applies for some full-susser frame designs, where the front triangle is packed with linkage and rear shock.

bracket holes for pannier rack
These are non essential for offroad riding, really. However, if you're considering to sport your bike with a pannier rack, they are needed. Check the seatstays for them, on both sides. Also inspect that there are at least one threaded hole near the slot for the rear wheel QR.


Wow... that's an awful lot of little details to look at, huh. Well, all for ensuring a good purcha$e, and minimal glitch in switching to that needed frame.

If I can part you a single tip, it would be best to buy a frameset, i.e. the frame with headset and seatpost clamp bundled together. Much better if it comes with the seatpost and spare RD hanger too. If you're buying a second hand item, ask the seller if he could throw in the FD as well. Saves you a lot of is$ues.

Thanks for taking your time reading up to this line.
Have a great day!
 
picture frame photo from Ikea
MTB frame in photos in case you're wondering is EPX Hollowpoint

Brake Levers - Which Side?

Avid Elixir CR - ambidextrous.

Cantilever - shown mounted RHS Front

V-brake - LHS Front

Shimano Deore M-595 - fixed LHS Front (shown RHS lever)

No matter what type of brakes you're mounting on your handlebar, you'll face this issue: Which side shall I mount the levers?

There are two options:

1. "LHS Front" - Left hand side (LHS) for front brake with right hand side (RHS) for rear.

2. "RHS Front" - Right hand side (RHS) for front brake with left hand side (LHS) for rear.

For V-brakes and some hydraulic brake models, the issue is solved for you. They are fixed to have the first option (LHS Front). Okay, you can say that you don't have options for these. For others, you're given the benefit of matching the levers with motorcycle style through the second option (RHS Front).

Hydraulic brakes hoses normally are pre-assembled to the levers and calipers and pre-installed with hydraulic liquid, giving you the no-hassle 'install and use' (or abuse).

V-Brakes

The levers itself for V-Brakes are never an issue. Cable changing is a walk in the park with V-Brakes. However, the system is deemed as fixed to use LHS Front, due to the location of the noodle hinge placement for the front brake. Located directly below the RHS lever, it's quite impractical to have the cable routed from the noodle to it. For a good cable route with a nice radius and kink-free, it is best to have it as LHS Front. You're left with having to adapt to this.

However, I've seen instances of Vs installed RHS Front, but the noodle is jutting outwards to the front and the cable is quite long it looks awkward.

Cantilever Brakes

Okay, it's a bit ol' skool and nobody I know still using this type of mechanical brakes. Basically, they are considered flexible. You can have the levers installed as LHS Front or the other.

This is due to its cable runs down to the middle in between the brake cantilevers. So, it's not an issue whether you want the front brake to be on the LHS or RHS.

Hydraulic brakes - fixed levers

The lever design is fixed, whereby one lever is for the LHS, and the other lever for the RHS. Usually you'll find that the default assembly of the hoses is for LHS Front. Examples are those from Shimano and Magura.

The lever design does not permit exchange of sides, so if you want to have it 'customised' to have RHS Front, you'd have to disassemble the hoses from the levers and switch between them. So far I've never dabbled on hydraulic brakes' hose and fluid, so I don't have any idea on whether it would be a messy affair whatsoever. Anyway, you can always have your LBS to help you with this.

Hydraulic brakes - ambidextrous levers

A number of brake manufacturers utilise flip-flop design, or ambidextrous, which means you can have the option of mounting the front brake levers on the RHS or LHS. Examples include Avid Juicy and Elixir; and Hayes El Camino, Stroker and Prime.

The pre-assembled sets look like the manufacturer knows what you want, whether you're a LHS Front or RHS Front guy. You'll say to yourself, "wow, they really know what I want".

To the manufacturer, this sort of design would lower down the production cost. Only one design for both levers.

Clever.

Why is this important?

Simply put, and primarily, it's for our safety.

The front brake is our prime stopper. It gives us more stopping power compared to the rear brake. Hence, we should be familiar with it; either to purposely use it to stop the bike, and more importantly to be aware of it - not to pull the front brake lever hard during a panic spell while going downhill (you get the picture).

My friend Gjoe was awarded with a few stitches on his chin due to this. He's a left-handed as I am (read: not normal. heheh...), and he's used to have the front brake lever on the RHS for his old 4-piston Shimano XT hydros. When he purchased his new XT hydraulic brakes, he's forced to use it as it is - LHS Front, as the brake sets came pre-assembled that way. Poor him, he pulled the wrong lever and ended up with stitches on his chin and scratches on the new brakes. Now, after the accident, he's changed the levers to what he's familiar with - RHS Front.

The other reason is for us to know our options and be prepared with any further costs ($ and time) should we need to have them modified to our preferences.

My way

I get around this problem by having it this way:

- LHS for front controls - brake and FD shifter

- RHS for rear controls - brake and RD shifter.

Okay, it is more towards fixed setting, since shifters are always LHS mounted for the FD, and RHS mounted for the RD. And, coincidentally, the same is for v-brakes. So I've got no issues on this, if I were to use Shimano hydros. Anyway, for the option freak me, I went with ambidextrous ones from Avid. Well, I bought because I got 'em cheap, primarily, and as a bonus, the design.

Also, I don't ride motorcycles because I don't have one, and that's primarily because I don't have a license (really, no kidding!). So, I don't have any issues with adapting the brake levers when I'm riding a bicycle or a motorcycle.

By the way, my Elixirs came as LHS Front. No twiddling necessary for me. Avid really knows what I want.

:P

The thing to be aware of

The moment you're getting yourself a pair of brakes, bear in mind and ask this question - what mounting option do you have with them, and does it suit your preference? If they do need some modification done to change the mounting side, you'll have to factor in the possible costs (time and $) for doing it.

I'd like to stress here that there's no fixed side for mounting your brake levers. As long as you're comfortable with it, go that path. It's your bike. You're the one who'll be riding it. After all, mountain bikes are built custom for fit, purpose and style; to the rider, riding style and personal preferences.

Which side are you on?

Added 03.11.2014: Do read this also, interesting fact and history.

Why Do Brakes Differ From Country to Country? 

photo credits:

Avid Elixir CR brake lever from mountain.bike198.com

cantilever brake from www.diaryofamountainbiker.co.uk

V-brake and Shimano Deore M-595 - mine