Tech: SRAM's 11s NX

Yet another 11s offering from SRAM, this one is an entry level grouppo for the masses (with a lot of mass, of course)

After churning out their GX range, SRAM released the NX groupset which is cheaper than GX. While GX is with an option of running either 1x11, 2x11 or 2x10, they set this one out as a 1x11 offering. However, unlike the previous 11s from SRAM, NX does not require the XD Drive freewheel body. Hence it is without the 10T in the cassette.

The cassette in NX range is PG-1130, with 11-42T range and more than half a kilogram weight (538g to be exact). In front, the chainring offered are 30, 32, 34,36 & 38T. The crank is Boost 148 compatible , and also available for fatbike (4") as well as a plethora of different BB standards. This may be a cheaper option for getting 1x11 onto the fatbike, but you do have to consider the weight penalty to pair with the already hefty bike.

MTBR has put up a X1/GX/NX comparison chart - weight and price (USD). Check it out.

Links:

SRAM's NX page.

Other SRAM's 11s family

photo taken from here.

Drop That Post!

Basically influenced by Dino's experience  with his manual dropper on his steel hardtail, I jumped at the opportunity to own a rather exotic dropper post offered by a friend's friend in Shah Alam. One of the best in the market though a bit dated and basic, Thomson Elite Dropper is golden (in finish too!). Anyway, due to restriction in $ and time, I delayed the purchase for a month. Luckily for me, the seller is not in an urgent sale.

I know that I don't have to think twice to own a Thomson given their reputation for quality and performance. Still, I read some reviews and watched youtube clips about it before getting my hands on this piece of top notch marvellous mechanical wonder. Simple, practical and best of all, it is maintenance free. I guess by the time I paid COD for the item its 2-year warranty period has lapsed. Not a bad thing for the price I paid, I'd say.

Primarily dropper posts are normally found (and perhaps expected) on Enduro bikes. Its weight at about 500-600 grams in a set comprising lever and cable/hose is a hindrance to have it installed on lightweight XC setups. I decided to put it on my already heavy Trance, hoping that it would add to the fun enjoying (mild) downhills.

I installed it the night before an offroad ride at Panchor. It didn't take me a long time to install (it's still a seatpost). I find that Thomson's simple saddle clamp design in particular makes it easy to adjust the position of the saddle - fore/aft and horizontal adjustment are dead easy.

there's still enough room for a bell,
but my thumb won't be able to reach it :)

However, my handlebar is now a bit cluttered with clamps at both ends; 4 on each - grip, brake, shifter and remote lever. There are 4 cables and 2 hoses sprouting out from the handlebar now, which is quite an overwhelming sight if I really look at it. Anyway, I wouldn't be bothered with it for now unless I want to revamp the whole drivetrain/brake/fork system as my next expensive tinkering/upgrade while getting the overall weight down a bit.

For now, call me Captain Handlebar.

A simple test ride around the neighbourhood past midnight after the installation was quite good. I love how the lever works. Press it down, and with my body weight the post drops all 125mm down in a smooth fashion. Press it again and the dropper goes up at a rate which is quite gentle to the bum (and balls). Depending on the rate of how the lever is pressed, the rate of the dropper going back up can be controlled. That means if I want to have it partially up, I just have to press down the lever up to a point where I needed the post to be. Simple and practical.

simple remote lever

Alas, there is one more item added on the handlebar, and one more decision to make on the trails now. Do I need to bring the post down? Should I bring the post back up? People who are using single chainring are now claiming that they are having one less burden of thinking about the front shifter (as well as the weight benefit). My Trance setup currently has everything. Triple front shifter, remote lockout for the fork, remote lever for the dropper seatpost, brakes and 10-speed rear shifter. I purposely didn't install a cyclometer on Trance to keep it as a fun bike. No need to bother myself on the ride data and such; rather relegated it to Strava on my smartphone (if it works correctly).

busy cockpit

Having the service of the dropper post on an offroad descend is a bliss. It is simply awesome. I am now talking about the dropper post in general. The benefits are as mentioned by Dino i.e. better control of the handlebar and the bike in general while descending. In order to lower my center of gravity during steep/technical downhill, I don't have to bring my butt to the back past the seatpost as much. This reduces arm stretch. Hence, reduced fatigue as well as having better play of the elbows. There is now a 125mm clearance on my bum to negotiate the bumps while descending so no worries on the saddle hitting my rump. The result: I could go faster. And I did, I think. That certainly brought more fun to the already fun Trance. Worth the dough and the weight penalty.

Now, about the weight...

Hmm...

Thanks for dropping by.

Enjoy your rides!

Get the Rear Edge - Alternative Cassettes

Below is the lowdown on the alternative cassettes to give you the range for gear ratio on your MTB drivetrain, be it currently by Shimano or SRAM. Assuming that other things remain constant (chain, front chainring ratio, tire size, crank size, etc.), let's look at the possible range that you may employ for your rig.

Praxisworks - 10sp Wide Range Cassette

range: 11-40T

toothcount: 11-13-15-17-19-21-24-28-34-40

material: steel (11 through 28), hard anodized 7075-T6 aluminium (34 & 40)

weight: 322g average

price: USD130

Advantages:

1. low gear 40T without having to resort to 10s cassette modification (One-Up at USD80, Hope, etc.)

2. smooth transition between gear range

3. could achieve lower overall weight

However:

1. highest gear is with 11T

e*thirteen - TRS+

range: 9-42T (10 speed), 9-44T (11 speed)

toothcount:

10 speed: 9-10-12-14-17-20-24-28-35-42

11 speed: 9-10-12-14-17-20-24-28-32-38-44

weight: 300g (10 speed), 320g (11 speed)

price: USD279 (10 speed), USD309 (11 speed)

Advantages:

1. 9T high gear instead of SRAM's 10T

2a. low gear 42T (for 10 speed) without having to resort to 10s cassette modification (One-Up at USD80, Wolftooth at USD79.95, etc.)

2b. low gear 44T (for 11 speed) without having to resort to 11s cassette modification (One-Up at USD80, Wolftooth at USD79.95, etc.)

3. comparatively lighter weight (excluding the XD Driver) compared to Praxisworks' 'equivalent'.

However:

1. requires SRAM's XD Driver

2. price for 10s is more than double of Praxisworks' (however, it is not exactly apple-to-apple comparison as you won't get the advantage of 9T high gear).

So?

Well, it is up to you to decide which one is best for your gearing needs. Bear in mind that it all depends on the gear ratio to be made available for you on your bike. Your riding style and strength are the factors dictating your gear ratio choice.

True, the free-market economy brings about choices for the consumers to get the best to suit their needs, but it is good only for those who know what they need. The above are represented for you to make that informed choice, and I hope that this would somehow help you to get what you need.

You may want to consider the combination of:

1. available gear ratio

2. overall drivetrain weight

3. overall price

Happy hunting!

-----------

*respective prices are as at the date of this post

**images taken from Praxisworks and e*thirteen websites

Tech: SRAM's 11 speed

SRAM has a lineup of groupsets featuring 11 speed cassette on the rear as below:

• XX1 - single chainring with 11 speed cog; top of the range
• X01 - X0 in single chainring with 11 speed flavour
• X1 - single chainring with 11 speed cog; higher weight
• GX - entry level 1x11 offering; available also as 2x11 (36/24 front) and 2x10 (36/22 front, 11-36 rear)

But why 11 speed? What are the advantages?

Personally, I'd like to analyse from gear ratio perspective; the performance side of it. Gear ratio is the tooth count ratio of front chainring over the cassette, e.g. gear ratio of 32T chainring and 10T of 10-42T cassette is: 32/10 = 3.2

SRAM's 11 speed is a bit special as it has the advantage of having the 10T gear on their cassette. This is made possible with the introduction of their new XD Driver body. Yes, another 'standard', but it makes sense and gives out performance advantage.

Compare these two parameters below, on a 29er with 2.1 tires spinning at 90 rpm and 175mm crank length:
1. 32T chainring with 11T gives out theoretical speed of 35.7 km/h (Fig. 1)
2. 32T chainring with 10T gives out theoretical speed of 39.3 km/h (Fig. 2)

1T more on the rear means 3.6 km/h faster, ceteris paribus.

Fig. 1 - 32/11 gear combo at 90 rpm with 29x2.1 tires gives 35.7 km/h

Fig. 2 - 32/10 gear combo at 90 rpm with 29x2.1 tires gives 39.3 km/h

For a racer, that is a lot and worthy the investment for upgrade/migration.
But is it for you? Only you can decide.

Now imagine if Shimano's Capreo system which include 9T on its cassette is introduced for MTB, that would be something big, at least for racers. And pretty attractive for those who are thinking of jumping into the 1x bandwagon.

Well, while Shimano is working on it and churned out their new 11s systems (under XT and XTR badges) with 11-40T and 11-42T cassettes, e*thirteen has spawned into production a 9-44T mega number - TRS+. That's massive on both ends! Requires SRAM XD Driver freehub.
*their 10s cassette is 9-42T.

Holding all other parameters the same as in above figures, 32T chainring with 9T gives out theoretical speed of 43.7 km/h! How about that.


Do visit and read further:
https://www.sram.com/sram/mountain/1x

http://enduro-mtb.com/en/press-release-sram-xd-driver-body/
https://www.sram.com/sram/mountain/products/sram-xd-driver-body
http://www.pinkbike.com/news/Inside-SRAMs-11-speed-rear-hub-and-XD-Driver.html
https://www.sram.com/sram/mountain/products/sram-xg-1199-cassette
http://www.bikeradar.com/mtb/gear/article/sram-xd-driver-body-explained-44409/

http://www.xddriverbody.com

9T Extras:

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/capreo.html

http://bythehive.com/e-thirteen/components/2016-trs-cassettes/

http://www.vitalmtb.com/photos/features/2016-Mountain-Bike-Components-at-Eurobike-2015,9336/e-thirteen-10-and-11-Speed-Wide-Range-Cassette,96398/bturman,109

Happy trails!

Upgraditis?

There's Nothing Wrong With Your Bike

Really. I agree with Aaron.

There's simply no cure for upgraditis, but you can definitely do more to upgrade yourself. Soup up your leg muscles and better your heart rate.

Do some circuit training, weight training and cardio workouts. The next time you tackle that familiar hill, take note of your heart rate and your timing. Can you clean it up with ease and have spare energy to keep going (for the next one!)? Once you have upgraded yourself, sprinting a short uphill or taking up the endurance challenge of a long hill climb will be your breakfast. In fact, you'll want them for dessert as well.

Read on:
http://www.singletracks.com/blog/mtb-gear/opinion-theres-nothing-wrong-with-your-bike/

Dingle Speed

*I know that on the (English QWERTY) keyboard, the letter S is just next to D. No typo in the title for this blog entry.

dingle cog on a track frame

I just found out about DS yesterday. A simple concept, minimalist and practical. It is dual-speed single speed.
Yes, if you're thinking about bailing out while riding the minimalist single speed, this may be for you.

I'm keeping this entry simple, so you have to hop on to the links below as they are pretty much comprehensive.

Explanation (a good one):
http://wilddogbicycles.blog.com/dingle-speed/

More explanation, rationale and uses (or excuses):
http://dornochdingle.blogspot.my/2012/02/idea-of-dingle.html

Parts (from Surly):
http://surlybikes.com/parts/drivetrain/dingle_cog


Photo credit:
http://www.cyclofiend.com/cc/2007/cc267-philipwilliamson0307.html

Tech: SRAM's 11s GX

cheaper 11 speed for your rear

Trickled down from XX1, SRAM bring to us their new GX range in 2015.

Pick your gearing:
1x11 (front: either 30/32/34/36/38T)
2x11 (yes, two! - front: 36-24T)
2x10 (front: 36-22T)
Rear 11s cassette: 10-42T (weights: 325g for XG-1175 or 395g for XG-1150)
Rear 10s cassette: (weights: various for PG-1050, 395g for 11-36T PG-1030)
*as a comparison, XX1's cassette XG-1199 10-42T is 260g

The 1x chainring is using SRAM's X-SYNC design, same as XX1 so no chainguard is needed. And yes, for the 11s cassette due to the 10T, still need to use their XD Drive freewheel body (read: still expensive).

Obviously this is great news for among us who want simplicity while not burning a hole on our pockets (at least not as expensive as XX1).

As MTB gearing is having a plethora of choice spread on the table, you have to know what you NEED rather than what you want. Get a gear calculator and compare the ratios available and decide which combo is the right one for you. Well, part of the burden being in a free market is the consumer has got to know what they need. Hope that you find one that fits nicely with your riding style.

For more information, head to:
https://www.sram.com/sram/mountain/family/gx

Bike Radar's first look:
http://www.bikeradar.com/mtb/news/article/sram-gx-groupset-first-look-43941/

Bike Radar's first-ride review:
http://www.bikeradar.com/mtb/gear/category/components/product/review-sram-gx-1x11-transmission-49348/

*photo taken from mtbs.cz

Modern MTB - Spoilt for Choice

When I started mountain biking in 2008, the bicycle used to be simple. Apart from the riding discipline, there are not many complication in deciding what kind of bike you're going to buy or upgrade to.

For instance, it is either hardtail or full suspension (FS). And FS would most likely lean towards All-Mountain (AM) or Downhill (DH) with a few exception to XC.

The rest are quite standard.

Nowadays, true to the sport's nature (and industry), evolution and solution to specific needs have been churned out quite rapidly  thus giving a broad spectrum of customisation. And with that, limitations to a big extent. Hey, this is mountain biking, after all. You ride a rig that's suitable with you and your type of riding.

These are the choices (or limitation) that you could have in assembling your bike that I have thus far collected (except fat bikes, and the list may not be exhaustive):

• Wheel size: 26", 650B (aka 27.5") or 29".
• Headset/Headtube/Steerer tube: 1 1/8" top and bottom, 1 1/8" top and bottom tapered 1.5" or Giant's Overdrive2 (OD2) 1.25" top with 1.5" bottom.
• Bottom bracket: Square tapered, Shimano external, ISIS, SRAM GXP, BB30, PF30, BB86, BB92, BB79, BB386EVO.
• Rear Shifter: Matching SRAM shifter with RD, matching Shimano's shifter with RD (SRAM's Attack shifter can also do the job, but rare nowadays and limited to 9s).
• Drivetrain: 8/9/10 rear cassette and matching chain
• Drivetrain (11s): 11 rear cassette (XX1) with matching XD Drive hub, 11s shifter, 11s chain and single chainring (a really restricted grouppo).
• Gear combination: 1/2/3 chainring coupled with suitable cassette (see Drivetrain)
• Stem/Handlebar diameter: 'standard' Ø27.2 or oversize Ø31.8 (seems to be the standard nowadays, overtaking 27.2) and relatively newer Overdrive Ø35
• Stem/steerer tube interface: standard 1 1/8" or Overdrive 1.25" (related to: Headset/Headtube/Steerer tube above)
• Fork end: QR 9mm, TA Maxle (15mm/20mm/DH).
• Rear axle: QR 9mm, TA 10mm, DT Swiss/Maxle Lite 12mm (check that your rear fork end 'over locknut distance' is 142mm for through axle).

Phew!
Anything else I've missed out?

SRAM X9 10 speed

SRAM X9 10 speed: 3x12 setups to choose from

Since 10 speed is gaining users (some due to push factor and advertisement, I would say), it would be nice to try it out myself. Zack reported good experience with X9 RD & cassette with XT 3x10 crankset - smooth operation being the news.

Problem is, there are too many configurations to choose from for X9. Either 2x10 or 3x10 configuration, and a choice of 12 different 10 speed cassettes.

Q: Why X9, not X0 or XX?

A: Mampu milik, mid range

Any bike shop would want me to test it out?

Wouldn't mind if you supply me X0 or even XX instead, though.

;)

Note: cassette tooth count info taken from here.

Sports Tracker

Part of the reason for the new (well, bought secondhand) phone is to have the GPS. I installed Sports Tracker app, and now I'm able to track my cycling route for free.

I uploaded my trackings to the Sports Tracker website, and could also export .GPX file of the tracking to memory card on the phone. I'm not sure if 'Export to Google Earth' is actually exporting the .KML file. Anyway, I could then view the tracking on Google Earth. Nice.

Another thing also is that it keep track of the music track I'm listening to while riding. This bonus came as a surprise. Can't view the details on the phone's interface, though, just on the website. Not to worry, for I plugged only the left earphone for my safety on the road.

Here's the snapshot of yesterday's ride home from the office:

riding home from office 01.04.2011

And the vertical profile:

nice graph

Okay, so next up is to try out the geotagging thingy. Best for during riding offroad.

Credit goes to Dino for showing me the way, and being the big part of influencing me into all of this.
:)

must be the most comfortable seat

...or saddle, if you wish to keep the term correct.

:)

 

In the company's yard, there are hundreds of bikes. With welding machine and all sorts of other tools plus materials available to them, combine those with necessity and creativity, et voila!

Epicon Travel Adjust

have Epicon, can change travel (short or long)

 

A friend bought an Epicon for his hardtail and emailed me asking whether is it normal his fork being a bit stiff. Typical me, I answered him with some links and diagrams. For that, I had to google around and with that I stumbled upon other things as well.

 

Here is one of them, which is quite interesting: How to Adjust Epicon / Axon Fork Travel. The page is complete with diagram and step-by-step instructions, plus tips to boot, too. Interestingly, Aaron mentioned that Epicon's travel can be adjusted from 80 up to 140mm (at 20mm intervals). That's something I didn't know before this.

 

120mm on my current Epicon is a bit high for my hardtail XC setting; I feel a bit giddy. Getting it down to 100mm would be ideal, I suppose. There are a few things that I need to have before attempting to get my fork travel down to 100mm, though. Torque wrench, grease, pin driver and bench vise - I dont' have them. Perhaps a few hours doing it at an LBS would be the thing to do.

 

Oh, how I love my Epicon much more now.

<3

:D

 

Have a good day, and ride safe (short travel or long).

;)

Thanks for coming over.

 

 

image taken from Aaron's How To page

BB30

do not use this crankset - it has no chainrings

 

BB = bottom bracket

 

BB30 (from Competitive Cyclist):

The BB30 is an open-source (to use software terminology) standard where you essentially press bearings directly into an oversized BB shell. It eliminates the need for external (or internal) BB cups Unlike integrated headsets, the BB30 actually has performance upsides: You get a substantially lighter and stiffer BB. You reduce Q factor. In theory prices should be reasonable since road bikes and mountain bikes will share the same BB design (no more 68 vs 70 vs 73).

 

So there you go. Mind you, BB30 is not only for road bikes, but mountain bikes as well.

 

BB30 originates from Cannondale, back in 2000. However, they are not putting it out with license to be purchased in order to use the standard. That's the 'open source' bit.

 

Threadless BB

I've always thought that mtb frame design would eventually move to the spectrum where there are no threads to be tapped on it at all. It had done away the thread on the headtube with the threadless headset system. With BB30 it would be doing the same to the bottom bracket shell. As CC had mentioned, it has performance upsides, along with the reduced Q Factor.

 

The thing about threaded BB shell is that it needs to be correctly tapped so that it would not result in misalignment of the BB cups, be it external bearing or square tapered spindle. Of course, the BB threads are of opposite turns on the left (non-drive) and right (drive) side. There's also the case of different thread pitches - Italian, English, etc.

 

However, luckily so far I've never encountered a badly threaded BB shell that rendered the whole frame useless. That's including fake Taiwanese frames, mind you. Anyway, there's still a concern that it could go wrong coming out from the factory, and the buyer would usually find out about this only during installation of a BB.

 

BB30 as a standard, requires precision machining, too (click link for technical drawing, but you have to accept, and read, the terms and conditions of the agreement first). For installation and removal of the BB30 bearings, (new) special tool is required. I'm not worried about the machining of the shell, as frame manufacturers had shown (even for fake ones) that they are capable of getting it right with the threaded BB shell.

 

What makes me sometimes feeling a bit opposed to innovations and improvements is that almost all the time they would require a new set of tools. That's the case with this one. Park Tool's BBT-30.3 is an example of the special tool required for the system.

 

Installation and Removal

Here's the installation and removal of BB30 bearing system, from Park Tool.

 

From the look of it, I'm not in favour of the system in this regard. I actually hate to install and remove headsets, and this is about the same. I have not encountered any big problem with threaded BB (seized thread, especially), so my inclination is more towards threaded system.

 

Part of this is due to the absence of headset press in my collection of bike tools. I have to have that, along with the BB30 tool if I were to do the installation and removal at home. Else, those would warrant a trip to the LBS (if they do have the tool) and my temporary problem is solved.

 

Q Factor

Basically, its the lateral distance between the outers of crank arms on a bike.

 

Refer here (Wikipedia), here (Grant Petersen) and here (Sheldon Brown) for explanation of Q Factor; and do get back here to continue reading.

 

So, as Q Factor is established as an important dimension for some merits it brings, BB30 brings them home quite nicely.

 

Will I go for it?

Well, to tell the truth, I have to try it first in order to know what I like. Getting the Q Factor low seems great in theory, but I need to have a go at it. I didn't notice any much difference when using external bearing BB, migrating from the square tapered BB, though. However, I'm sure there'll be noticeable difference, going from big Q Factor with external BB to considerably lower Q Factor with BB30 (or Pressfit 30 from Truvativ).

 

As pointed out, I'll face the problem of installation and removal of the system. While this can be remedied with a visit to the LBS (with the tool available), I prefer to do it at home by myself. Need to have ($) the necessary tools for that.

 

Examples of adopters (so far):

Cannondale

SRAM - BB30 and Pressfit 30 (but that's another different thing)

FSA (website), their presentation (.pdf) and a piece from Bike Radar (has longer list of BB30 adopters too).

 

The other advantage

One advantage with a frame with BB30 shell is that you can use many types of crankset with that frame. With the correct adaptor, you can even use Italian threaded roadbike crankset on your mtb frame. Well, that's pointed out as an example, practicality not evaluated.

:)

 

 

Thank you for coming by (and reading up to here, links too!).

Have a good day.

 

cutout photo taken from here.

Manitou Magnum

bottomed out, but there's hope for a new lease of life

 

From the BBS chatbox a few weeks ago, someone showed his old skool Barracuda mtb through a link of a forum. Thumbing through that, I got a link to technical manuals of old Manitou forks. I happen to have one of them - Manitou Magnum - which came with the ProFlex frame from my brother Hafiz.

 

It would be nice to have the Magnum brought to life again, now that is is bottomed out due to the elastomer (in lieu of coil springs) disintegrated and turned to some sticky goo.

 

Fortunately, Wings-Suspension caters for elastomer replacement coils, for cases such as mine. However, Magnum is not listed in their offering for old Manitou forks. I've asked if they have one, and no reply yet. Well, perhaps the ones for Manitou 4 should be okay for Magnum. The next thing is of course, whether I could afford to have the replacement kit.

:)

 

Another thing, though, the travel shall be around 50-60 mm only. Compare that to the current trend of having the minimum travel of 80 mm and normally 100 mm.

Big difference. Well, the motivation for this rebuilding? Purely from the novelty aspect, the ol' skool thingy.

 

Waiting patiently for this side project, if it would ever take off.

 

Thanks for coming by.

Have a great day!

Giant's Maestro Rear Suspension

how 'bout that?

 

hmm... deliciousss.

 

 

graphics and info taken from Giant's 2010 catalog

not available at any Giant hypermarkets or supermarkets

Kevlar?

Mu penah nengok dok, tayar hok ado Keblar?

Nota untuk penjual/pengutip besi buruk/baru:

Demo tok payoh lah nok bakar tayar hok ni. Takdok hasil. Abih jadi abu seghemo.

carbon clavicle, anyone?

inForm Technology Aids in Lance Armstrong's Recovery
from:
http://www.bontrager.com/news/inform_technology_aids_in_lance_armstrongs_recovery/en dated 1st. April 2009.

Armstrong and equipment sponsor Bontrager, jointly announced that he was the world's first recipient of an inForm® Full Carbon Clavicle Upgrade

Few points there:

• Bontrager not only sponsor bike equipment, but venturing into body replacement parts as well.
• Clavicle Upgrade. Yup, you get lighter clavicle. I wonder if there'll be another surgery for the left clavicle - just so to balance things out.
• There are always opportunities for every mishap.
• There are unlimited ways to April Fool

'Nuff said. It woulda be cool, though.
:)