RTW 22.10.2010 - The New L Route

The L Route

 

Thanks to my office mate Haris who provided a tip on a possible route, I ventured a new shorter path to the office this morning.

 

I call it my L Route. L is for:

if I'm feeling Lazy to go the normal route

if I'm Late going out

if I need to be Lone (okay, that's a bit cheesy)

 

Well, the 'lone' bit is only a short distance - about 2 km, and it could be obsolete (although not too soon) when the road is fully opened to public.

 

The route is actually a twist on the hilly route of Taman Bukit Rinting, Taman Rinting, and Kampung Pasir Gudang Baru. Previously, I would go left towards Taman Mawar at the interchange after exiting Kampung Pasir Gudang Baru and continue from there. The L Route is on the right hand side, and is part of a new stretch of highway from Pasir Gudang to Bakar Batu.  It is rideable all throughout the journey, with a very short section of red earth (currently).

 

I don't think I could take my RTW Machine with that route, at least not with slicks. There's a sandy section with loose gravels right before the small bridge at the jetty of Kampung Pasir Gudang Baru. The L Route has a short unpaved section which would be quite messy if it rains. The exit of the route is the Pasir Gudang Highway, towards JB. That means I'm going counter-current, and for that I have to ride on the grass outside the road shoulder - plus there are a few holes and drains that would be awful for a rigid bike.

 

It is about 3 km shorter that my normal route, and this morning I'm early by 9 minutes compared to my average time. I'll use it on my way back home this evening insyaAllah. I could also ride on the new highway straight to Kota Puteri, and make it a true L Route - an L shape route.

 

The haze in Pasir Gudang area is quite bad, and it may limit my RTW if it doesn't get better. However, I'm quite reluctant to have a day without my dose of endorphin early in the morning.

Sigh...

 

Stats today:

Out from home	0659	hours
Arrive office	0727	hours
Door-to-door	28	mins
Ride time	26'45"
Distance	9.6	km
Ave. speed	21.6	km/h
Max speed	42.0	km/h
Odometer	5341.5	km
Good doggies	0	Zero!
Mode	L Route	Hollowpoint, knobbies

 

 

Have a good ride, y'all.

May Allah bless you.

Thanks for coming by.

Frame Considerations

gorgeous white painted, not the frame in discussion

You're a newbie and you've found out after a few rides that there's something wrong with your frame. Most of the time it's actually your inner wants are at play; and your head is telling you that a certain frame brand or design is much better than what you're having now. Well, if you want to switch to a new 'better' frame, that is your choice. The same also applies to a seasoned rider, but I trust that it would be more of a 'need' thingy.

Frame switching involves a lot of attention to details because that's the center of the build itself. All parts are connected to it. Okay, well, except for fork, stem, cockpit, front wheel, but you get my drift.

First off, there's the type of frame that you want to have, either a hardtail or full susser. You also may consider the material of the frame itself, be it carbon fiber, aluminium (of various grades), titanium, scandium, unobtainium (okay, that's too exotic). Then you have to look at the geometry that suits you. These are mighty important.

What's important just as well, but to a bit lesser degree (just a tiny bit) are the details on the frame.

You have to look at the:
headtube length
headtube construction (for the headset type)
BB shell length
BB type
RD dropout
V-brake bosses
disc brake mounting tabs
seatpost size
seattube size
cabling brackets
bottle cage bracket holes
bracket holes for pannier rack

I won't discuss about the frame types, materials and geometry. You have to look elsewhere for those. What's seldom being discussed are the other details as listed above (in no particular order of importance), and let's take a look at them. Here we go...

headtube length and headset type need to be looked at,
also note the cable brackets are on the top tube side for this frame

headtube length
If you're switching to a new frame and intend to use your existing expensive forks, then you have to measure the new frame's headtube length. Different frames would differ sligtly. You have to add spacers below your stem, or cut your precious fork's steerer tube to accommodate to a shorter headtube. If the fork's steerer tube is short by more than 5mm after stem is installed (without any spacers), that's a sure indication that the headtube length is much longer than your current. You have to look for other frames with about the same headtube length as your current one, then.

headtube construction (for the headset type)
If you intend to re-use your headset on a new frame, then the headtube diameter and type shall be looked upon. The 'standard' diameter size is for a 1 1/8" headset. The newer standard, usually for a much burlier frames is 1.5" e.g. freeride, downhill. [Update 17.08.2015: Also, it is now common for frames intended for 650B (27.5") and 29" wheels to have tapered 1.5" bottom with 1 1/8" top headset]. There's also the smaller 1" diameter, but these are no more common for mtb frames.

There are also many different headset types - normal, internal and integrated. You have to know what's on your current frame, and compare that with your replacement frame.

BB shell length for this frame is 68 mm, note the spacers used

BB shell length
Usually English thread BB are found on mtb frames, either 68 mm or 73 mm length. In the case of external BB, you need to put two 2.5 mm spacers on the drive side, and one spacer on the non-drive side if the frame's BB shell length is 68 mm. Keep the spacers neatly in your spares box if the BB shell length is 73 mm.

Check your BB spindle length in case it is the square taper or ISIS spline or Shimano Octalink. It has to match your BB length, or you'll have issues with your chainline/shifting.

RD dropout, note that there are no threaded holes provided for pannier rack mounting

[Added 17.08.2015]
BB type
There is a plethora of BB types now, as technology is expanding and components are refined to suite riding styles. Check what is your current BB type and the new frame you intend to use. If they are directly compatible, you don't have to spend $ for adapters (if available) to get a new BB altogether. Mind you, it goes without saying that the crankset follows the type of BB that you're using. So take some time to dwell into the subject and if you haven't, put the extra $ required in your budget.

RD dropout
Nowadays, frames come with replaceable RD hangers. Always get a spare RD hanger when you're getting a new frame, and put it safely in your riding bag as an emergency spare. Especially for long, epic rides, you'll never know when you'll need them.

who da boss?
also note that there are no pannier rack mounting holes on side of the seatstay

V-brake bosses
If you intend to run disc brakes on your bike (the norm now), then you can do without the bosses. However, if you're planning on using V-brakes, then obviously you have to have the bosses on the frame. Make sure that the bosses are there, or you have to make a separate purchase (seldom is the case, though). I've learnt that there are 2 sizes of bosses, so make sure you know which one to get.

disc brake tabs - a norm on modern frames

disc brake mounting tabs

If you intend to run V-brakes, then this is not important to you. However, it is best to have it for future upgrade should you feel the itch. Be careful while admiring a fellow rider's rig, and if you're feeling 'left out' as being the only rider in the pack with Vees (or cantilevers, for that matter). If you're using disc brakes, then you should check for the tabs. Nowadays frames come with the tabs, but do check when you're getting NOS (new old stock) frames sold cheap, or for that vintage quality.

seatpost size
You may need to lay rest your current seatpost if the size is not the same as your new frame's. Also applies to your seatpost clamp. Be careful also to note the seatpost size on your new frame, whether it is easily available currently.

A friend of mine has to source out on ebay and pay extra, because the seatpost for his frame is rare nowadays. Well, his is a vintage mtb frame, anyway.

Also, look at the seatpost clamp slit, whether it is on the forward or facing the rear tire. It is better if it is facing forward - reduced tendency for water or mud to seep in from rear tire spray while rolling.

the cable routing for the FD on this frame is from top,
the FD is XT down swing but can handle top routing as well

seattube size

This is directly related to the seatpost size, but the concern is more on the FD clamp. Usually the FD has spacers to adapt for different seattube diameters. You would need them if your new frame's seattube diameter is smaller than your current one.

I have tried using DIY spacers (inner tube, metal sheets), but of course, always the best path is to use the specific spacers supplied with your FD. Get them from the bike shop if you don't have them. Use your charm, and you could get them for free.

[Added 17.08.2015]
These days, added to the already many types of FD mounting for MTB is the direct mount type, borrowed from road bike norm. If your new frame has this, then you need to fork out extra $ for the new FD. Ask the seller (if bought secondhand) to have this in the package so you're saved from the hassle of getting a new one.

In the case of a full-susser, many frames are having specific type of FD mounting style. Some even require you to use a Shimano E-type which is uncommon and rare, if not hard to find at your LBS.

cabling brackets dictate your cable routing
my favourite - running on toptube sides or under it

cabling brackets
Look at your riding buddies' frames and you would see that their cable routings for brakes and shifters vary. Some have it railed on the top of the top tube, some have it a the sides of the top tube, some running beneath the downtube, and I've seen a frame with routing threaded into the top tube, on its sides.

There are advantages and disadvantages on routing the cables a certain way. Some would save you on cabling hoses but exposing your cables to dirt. Routing your shifter cables underneath the downtube (usually bare for a length) would certainly be the case. Check that the frame comes with the plasic guide on the bottom of BB shell if the routing is underneath the downtube. Routing the cable on top of the top tube would rob you the space to put a utility bag such as this Topeak Tri Bag.

Cable routing would also affect the type of FD clamp. Usually for bottom routed cable, the FD clamp would be the high type (down swing) and low clamp (top swing) for top routed. Anyway, check if your FD could handle both cable entries. You're $afe if it is. The same goes for E-type FD (Shimano). Note: those Shimano XTs in the links are of Dual Pull Technology - they can take either routing.

[Added 17.08.2015]
New generation MTB frames are having shifter cables routed through the inside of the frame itself. This in my opinion is a cost cutting exercise for the manufacturer. There are no extra parts for the cable routing brackets, only some rubber bits for covering the hole. This, however, in effect gives a much sleeker appearance and eliminates gunk and dirt attached to your cables - easier to clean your bike. However, do note that there might be some hassle in routing the cables, which is a once in a while job, anyway.

bottle cage bracket holes
This would essentially depend on your preference. Do you want your bike to be ultra light as it is? You could do away with the water bottles and use hydration pack instead. Or, do you want to have at least two bottle cages for touring? Perhaps you want at least one set of the holes to mount your hand pump bracket.

[Added 17.08.2015]
Take note also the location of the holes on the frame. Especially on small size frames where the front triangle is not big enough to mount a decent size of water bottle within it, the holes might be at the bottom of the downtube. A nice place to collect mud, sand and other stuff from the rolling front tire. Also applies for some full-susser frame designs, where the front triangle is packed with linkage and rear shock.

bracket holes for pannier rack
These are non essential for offroad riding, really. However, if you're considering to sport your bike with a pannier rack, they are needed. Check the seatstays for them, on both sides. Also inspect that there are at least one threaded hole near the slot for the rear wheel QR.


Wow... that's an awful lot of little details to look at, huh. Well, all for ensuring a good purcha$e, and minimal glitch in switching to that needed frame.

If I can part you a single tip, it would be best to buy a frameset, i.e. the frame with headset and seatpost clamp bundled together. Much better if it comes with the seatpost and spare RD hanger too. If you're buying a second hand item, ask the seller if he could throw in the FD as well. Saves you a lot of is$ues.

Thanks for taking your time reading up to this line.
Have a great day!
 
picture frame photo from Ikea
MTB frame in photos in case you're wondering is EPX Hollowpoint

RTW 19.10.2010 - Intense Training... kunun...

Jambori ECC Burung Hantu cuma seminggu lebih aje lagi. Aku dah terlepas beberapa kayuhan offroad, dan tinggal satu weekend aje untuk offroad. Makanya RTW jadi sesi latihan intensif lah.

 

Semalam aku kayuh, hari ni pun kayuh juga. Hollowpoint with full knobbies on road. Hehehe... saja buat susah diri. Esok, lusa, tulat? Tak tau lagi. Ok juga kalau keadaan mengizinkan.

 

Bermula dari rumah pagi tadi, juga dek kerana dah lambat siket, aku kayuh agak intensif jugak lah. Dah tu pulak, ada segerombolan anjing dok lepak-lepak baek punya kat tengah jalan masa kat Taman Masai. Memang nak kena bersedia untuk sprint lah. Alhamdulillah, semuanya berkelakuan baik-baik belaka masa pagi tadi. Depa pandang buat tak tau aje masa aku lalu kat tepi diorang.

 

Hasilnya, aku sampai pejabat dalam masa 33 minit termasuk dengan waktu menunggu 2 lampu trafik di Pasir Gudang. Perrhhh... Penat siut... tapi puas.

 

Stats today:

Out from home	0709	hours
Arrive office	0742	hours
Door-to-door	33	mins
Ride time	31'43"
Distance	23.4	km
Ave. speed	12.43	km/h
Max speed	39.0	km/h
Odometer	5292.2	km
Good doggies	7
Mode	Hollowpoint,	full knobbies

 

Terima kasih sudi berkunjung.

Dah daftar untuk Jambori ECC Burung Hantu?

Jumpa di sana, insyaAllah...

Shifter Replaced, and Made a Match

Avid Matchmaker installed, with (still clean and scratchless) new left X9 shifter pod.

Lotsa space on the handlebar.

 

I went to Kevin's shop on Saturday to send my SRAM X9 left shifter and see if he can repair it. The problem with it is that the upshift is sluggish and it doesn't spring back to ready for another shift. This happened quite some time ago. I put the problem to rest and replaced it with a Shimano SLX left shifter. A downhiller who sees no use to it sold me his. It was considered cheap, and it sort of matches with my XT FD.

 

Upon acknowledging my problem, Kevin did what I have dreamt of what retailers in Malaysia would do for a long, long time. Well, he didn't even attempt to fix the unit! Instead, he took my faulty shifter, and handed out a new left shifter from a SRAM box to me while saying, "you're lucky I have a last unit of this".

 

Wow! Until today I can't shake the awesome feeling off. A faulty parts replacement in an instant, no questions asked.

 

The other purpose of the shop visit was to see if I could get my hands on a pair of Avid Matchmaker. Well, as my problem for the shifter was solved there and then, the decision for the MM was made in an instant, too. I got the last pair in his shop, so he discounted RM5 further for me. I paid RM80 for an item that sits in my 'wants' list (starve the 'needs' list for now). Still okay, I guess. It's 19.99 pounds from CRC and USD19.99 from Art's Cyclery (just to name 2 overseas online shop) at the time of writing, excluding shipping (I like the Matchmaker description at Art's Cyclery page).

 

Now, I can mount a GPS unit, headlight, meter, bell, ride buddy toy figurines, videocam and shock lever pump on my handlebar.

:)

 

note: if you're mounting SRAM shifters and using Hayes Stroker brakes, you can use the Matchmaker, too.

Plentong Epic Ride 2010 - closing date 13 Nov

Update:

If you haven't registered yet, you still have a bit more than a month to do so. The closing date for registration is 13th. November 2010.

 

Also, the event is now supported by JKKK Plentong.

too many to write about

There are too many (by my standards) to be written on my cycling adventure, and as the cliche goes, there's not much time to sit down and write about it.

 

These past 2 weeks:

1. I went in Seri Alam Trail alone on a quiet Saturday morning

2. Got hold of 3 pairs of grips (yes, 3 pairs)

3. Joined a night ride in KL with GLC folks

4. I'm starting a new bike-related project (with a new blog)

 

1. The solitary ride

Marsya's birthday falls on Sunday 3rd Oct and Naza's holding a masak-masak makan-makan thingy for her colleagues who wanted to come over our place for Hari Raya's ziarah. Definitely I have to be at home and help with things around the house. So, I planned for a ride on the day before. Being a Saturday, not many riders around my area are going into Seri Alam. I planned with a friend to have a ride in Setia Indah but that didn't materialise. I needed the ride, so I went in alone just to have my fix.

 

Yes, I broke a rule.

 

I didn't get in too far though, just went down into 'jongkang-jongket' - not a teeter-totter, but a 500 m offroad 'stairs'. I went a little bit further to the pylon and I was a bit shocked to see how the palm oil trees are now brought down and cleared off the land. It's to make way for the development of UiTM Seri Alam. Sheesshhh...

 

All in all, I learnt that from my house to the jongkang-jongket and back in a loop is about 10 km. So, whenever I'm up for a quick fix, that'll be it. Perhaps an introductory offroad ride with Naza soon, too.

 

2. Got 3 pairs of grips

I received 2 of them from Element Cycle and another (bought) from Angah Bike Shack. All 3 are different and I'll be writing about them soon. Tried 2 of them already, and have to make time to install the other one on my RTW Machine.

 

What are they? Oh, you'll have to wait.

:)

 

3. Ride with GLC

I was summoned for a 3-day meeting in KL last week, from Tuesday to Thursday.

 

That means:

1. No RTW for that week

2. A possibility to ride with GLC on Wednesday

 

I contacted BC Kelolo for the second item, while I was not really bothered for the first for it would be nicely compensated. He agreed to lend me his shiny Kelolopoint with lighting and helmet. I packed riding apparels in my bag, with a pair of sneakers instead of SPD shoes (too dirty).

 

Wednesday night I went to Kelolo's place in Gombak and just when I turned into Taman Melewar, it started drizzling. Hmm... reminiscent of my previous ride with GLC (wow, that was nearly 2 years ago...). However, as we rolled out at Al-Esfan Bistro, the rain subsided and the 8 of us ventured to the heart of KL.

 

I really enjoyed the ride - the route (as always), the sampling of roti canai spesel at Selangor Mansion, the non-stop music (especially Boney M), and of course the company of riders.

 

I'd like to register my thanks here to the folks at GLC whom I rode with that night. Looking forward to my next one, be it if for another 2 years.

 

4. The new project

Yes, a new project. It'll be a long term one, insyaAllah.

No, it's not about me building a new bike, although that might be one of it.

Will let  y'all know in here when the thing got rolling.

 

Thanks for coming by.

Have a good week ahead.

Plentong Epic Ride 2010 - 28.11.2010

Details taken from this link:

 

The most awaited EPIC ride is BACK!!!. Plentong Epic 2010. This ride will cover 60km of nice trail cutting across various terrain in Plentong.

Beginners - Experts levels all are welcome to join us for this fun ride.

Please be invited to join the
...Plentong Epic Ride 2010 Johor Bahru

The Trail:
Over 60km of wonderful trails cutting across various terrains in Plentong, Johor Bahru with many new sections of fabulous single tracks.
Beginners or EXPERTS, THERE is something for everyone-fast fire roads, gorgeous single tracks, lung-busting climbs and adrenaline pumping downhill and the most important is, less tarmac and all are rideable, There is also a chicken loop for the not so strong RIDERS.

The details of the event as below:
Fee: RM45 / SGD20
Date: 28th Nov 2010 (Sunday)
Time: 7.00am - 4.00pm
Venue: Plentong, JB
___________________________________________________________

Tips:-
GPS Coordinate: (Location Registration)
N1 31.420 E103 49.242

Google Map Direction: (Best route for you come to us)
http://maps.google.com.my/maps/ms?msa=0&msid=112761637535849959268.0004671a2c6f5...

___________________________________________________________

Registration:- Is now OPEN

For online registration:
- Go to this link below and fill up the detail
- Once the fee is transferred do email to us the transaction references or bank slip as payment
- http://www.cyclemotion2000.com/epic/main.php

For team registration:-
- Download the form from the link below
- Fill up all riders details and email back to us the complete form together with the bank slip or any online bank transaction references
- http://www.cyclemotion2000.com/document/2010_Epic_Team.xls

Registration will be close on 20 November 2010

If you have any inquiry please do not hesitate to contact us. We are just a finger away.

___________________________________________________________

Contact Details:-
Website : http://www.cyclemotion2000.com/
Email : jbcyclemotion2000@yahoo.com

Joseph Neo : 6012-711 1091
Norisham : 6012-757 1077
Mulyazam : 6013-778 3606

Bank-in Account;
Public Bank saving account (4724-1845-31) Azhar Bin Mohd Ehwan - Malaysia
POSB saving (039-69980-0) - Singapore

Haji: Mari Mengumpul Duit

harga pakej haji THTS 1431H/2010M

sumber

 

Borak-borak dengan Mak pagi tadi, aku tanya dia berapa harga pakej untuk dia pergi kerjakan ibadah haji tahun ni.

Katanya, "dalam 10,000 camtu lah, hotel dalam 200 m (dari Masjidil Haram). Satu bilik 5-6 orang gitu lah".

 

Lepas tu Mak menambah, "itu tak termasuk (Bayaran Haji) yang Tabung Haji tu".

 

Bayaran Haji: Info kat laman web TH tahun lepas ialah RM9,980.Ada juga yang letak RM7,704. Apa pun, maknanya, tanpa guna kalkulator (mesin kira), lebih kurang RM20,000 jugak lah nak kena ada tu.

 

Ulp! Dah naik RM5,000 berbanding 5 tahun lepas...

 

Aku cuba juga tengok-tengok kat internet, betul ke macam tu. Betul lah tu, lebih kurang. Sebagai perbandingan, aku letak harga pakej yang Tabung Haji Travel & Tours letak untuk tahun ni (1431H/2010M). Ada kat atas tu (harga pakej dah termasuk Bayaran Haji). Link kat sini. Itu kalau nak kerjakan ibadah haji & umrah dengan selesa lah. Untuk pakej-pakej lain yang ditawarkan, rujuk sini.

 

Boleh saja kalau nak ikut muassasah, cuma lebih kurang RM10,000 dah boleh kerjakan haji & umrah dah, termasuk dalam kuota. Kira basic aje lah, dan keselesaan tak terjamin. Itu aje. Tapi kalau nak 'add-on' perkhidmatan khas di Arafah & Mina, ada disediakan. Rujuk muka 8. Apa pun, itu cuma minima. Kena juga standby duit untuk mereka yang ditinggalkan (termasuk lah rumah dan kereta - masih kena bayar tiap bulan juga tu), dan juga belanja runcit-runcit bila kat sana tu.

 

Pendek kata, mengerjakan haji & umrah itu memang kena ada duit puluh ribu punya. Tak murah. Dan, aku yakin kita mampu, kalau kita letak niat dan mula tabungan.

 

Dengan niat yang ikhlas dan bersungguh-sungguh tu, akan datang rezeki yang tak disangka-sangka. Tapi bila dah dapat tu, kena sendiri mau hingat le, jangan joli beli/hapgred beskal (atau kereta, renovate rumah) pulak.

 

Kewajiban haji

Rukun Islam yang kelima.

Wajib bagi mereka yang mampu.

Kupasan bagi 'mampu':

1. Berkuasa membayar segala perbelanjaan bagi mengerjakan ibadat Haji sehingga selesai dan kembali ke tanah air.
2. Ada kenderaan pergi dan balik.
3. Disyaratkan mempunyai bekalan yang cukup untuk saraan nafkah orang yang di bawah tanggungannya.
4. Tidak mengalami kesulitan teruk semasa berada di dalam kenderaan.
5. Aman perjalanan.
Manakala bagi perempuan pula ditambah: Terdapat kawan perempuan berserta wanita Islam yang boleh dipercayai.

sumber

 

Makin lama umur bertambah, kederat tak tentu lagi. Dan yang hampir pasti, kos makin meningkat.

 

Selamat beramal, serta mula pasang niat dan menabung.

my article is on baikbike.com (facebook)

Guys,

 

My article on brake levers is up on baikbike.com's facebook page.

 

Have a read (or re-read) on the facebook page, and give the article a 'like' (if you do, that is).

 

 

Have a good day!

 

ayuh kayuh!

Akmal Hizam

RTW 27.09.2010 - Momentum Needed

I prepared for this morning's ride last night, and I went out early. Alhamdulillah, I enjoyed this morning's ride for it's not hasty. More of a relaxed ride, and I noticed something very fundamental as I've read somewhere before.

 

My RTW Machine lacks momentum. Whenever I stopped pedalling, the speed would decrease quite fast (physics term: deceleration). Really, it felt so. I felt that I have to put in much effort to have the machine rolling at an average speed, compared to riding my mountain bike. With an mtb, I feel that I would glide and the speed is not hard to build up once acceleration has begun. On flats, that is. However, the effort put in climbing a gradient (although not that steep) is lesser than I would have with an mtb (even with slicks). As a result, my ride this morning was not as fast as my previous ones. The average speed is just near to 22 km/h. Granted it's a relaxed ride, compared to Hollowpoint with slicks, I registered more than that.

 

Well, these are in agreement with what I read in various sources (through the internet, of course), and logic. Lighter objects would lose their momentum faster compared to heavier mass (or weight). In climbing, effort is lesser taxed with lighter bikes compared with hauling a heavy one.

 

This being stated, I've never weighed my RTW Machine yet. Suffice to say, it is my lightest (and cheapest) bike so far.

:)

 

Stats today:

Out from home	0652	hours
Arrive office	0729	hours
Door-to-door	37	mins
Ride time	34'25"
Distance	21.8	km
Ave. speed	12.52	km/h
Max speed	36	km/h
Odometer	5091.8	km
Good doggies	4
Mode	RTW Machine,	relaxed

 

Thanks for coming around.

Have a good day!

 

When was your last ride?

Striking a Balance

[very much as a note to self]

 

I'm not like a couple of riders I know, whom spouses are riders too. Sometimes I do envy them (don't we all?). They have it easier, enjoying mountain biking. But hey, our lives are different, and we have to make do and adapt.

 

My wife would sometimes pull a long face while I'm getting ready for a ride. And I would be silent whenever she asks the question that she already knows the answer to,

     "what time are you coming back?"

I take it that she's wishing me "have a good time on the trails, and be safe iye Sayang. I'll have your lunch ready when you reach home with hugs and kisses too" without being too romantic and to keep it short that early in the morning.

 

It turns out that I'm not alone. That's why I'm sharing this article with you.

:)

 

by Bike198

How To Ride Your Bike Without Your Wife (or Husband) Hating You

Read the full article here.

 

***

my weblog:

A few of the Spousal Tips put forth therein works nicely for me (us), but the first one (Start Earlier) needs a LOT of effort from my riding buddies. The last ride I participated in was scheduled at 8.30 but we started rolling at 8.45 am. I would have to start memorising a few short trails and go ride by myself (okay, perhaps with one or two others for sake of safety) when the itch kicks in but not having the luxury of time.

 

As for the others:

- Get a schedule - lesser offroad rides for me now, when we agreed for me to go only during non-working weekends (I work on alternate Saturdays). That means only twice per month, but I got my fix through RTWs, so I'm quite okay with that.

- When you are at home... be at home - still working on it :)

- Flowers always work - yes, they do

- Set a time to be home (even though you will probably break it) - well, pretty much okay. I try to be home at around 1 pm and 'be at home' (see above). If I do go outside of my normal trail, I'll make sure wifey is notified of the slightly extended wanderings.

- Drive yourself to the trailhead - I usually ride the bike from home to the RV point, and get back home straight from the trail where we exit (usually around 1 pm). I cut the time by not having lunch outside, and no time required for strapping the bike to a car.

 

May our homes are blessed and hope that our lives are balanced.

 

Thanks for dropping by.

Have a good life!

Brake Levers - Which Side?

Avid Elixir CR - ambidextrous.

Cantilever - shown mounted RHS Front

V-brake - LHS Front

Shimano Deore M-595 - fixed LHS Front (shown RHS lever)

No matter what type of brakes you're mounting on your handlebar, you'll face this issue: Which side shall I mount the levers?

There are two options:

1. "LHS Front" - Left hand side (LHS) for front brake with right hand side (RHS) for rear.

2. "RHS Front" - Right hand side (RHS) for front brake with left hand side (LHS) for rear.

For V-brakes and some hydraulic brake models, the issue is solved for you. They are fixed to have the first option (LHS Front). Okay, you can say that you don't have options for these. For others, you're given the benefit of matching the levers with motorcycle style through the second option (RHS Front).

Hydraulic brakes hoses normally are pre-assembled to the levers and calipers and pre-installed with hydraulic liquid, giving you the no-hassle 'install and use' (or abuse).

V-Brakes

The levers itself for V-Brakes are never an issue. Cable changing is a walk in the park with V-Brakes. However, the system is deemed as fixed to use LHS Front, due to the location of the noodle hinge placement for the front brake. Located directly below the RHS lever, it's quite impractical to have the cable routed from the noodle to it. For a good cable route with a nice radius and kink-free, it is best to have it as LHS Front. You're left with having to adapt to this.

However, I've seen instances of Vs installed RHS Front, but the noodle is jutting outwards to the front and the cable is quite long it looks awkward.

Cantilever Brakes

Okay, it's a bit ol' skool and nobody I know still using this type of mechanical brakes. Basically, they are considered flexible. You can have the levers installed as LHS Front or the other.

This is due to its cable runs down to the middle in between the brake cantilevers. So, it's not an issue whether you want the front brake to be on the LHS or RHS.

Hydraulic brakes - fixed levers

The lever design is fixed, whereby one lever is for the LHS, and the other lever for the RHS. Usually you'll find that the default assembly of the hoses is for LHS Front. Examples are those from Shimano and Magura.

The lever design does not permit exchange of sides, so if you want to have it 'customised' to have RHS Front, you'd have to disassemble the hoses from the levers and switch between them. So far I've never dabbled on hydraulic brakes' hose and fluid, so I don't have any idea on whether it would be a messy affair whatsoever. Anyway, you can always have your LBS to help you with this.

Hydraulic brakes - ambidextrous levers

A number of brake manufacturers utilise flip-flop design, or ambidextrous, which means you can have the option of mounting the front brake levers on the RHS or LHS. Examples include Avid Juicy and Elixir; and Hayes El Camino, Stroker and Prime.

The pre-assembled sets look like the manufacturer knows what you want, whether you're a LHS Front or RHS Front guy. You'll say to yourself, "wow, they really know what I want".

To the manufacturer, this sort of design would lower down the production cost. Only one design for both levers.

Clever.

Why is this important?

Simply put, and primarily, it's for our safety.

The front brake is our prime stopper. It gives us more stopping power compared to the rear brake. Hence, we should be familiar with it; either to purposely use it to stop the bike, and more importantly to be aware of it - not to pull the front brake lever hard during a panic spell while going downhill (you get the picture).

My friend Gjoe was awarded with a few stitches on his chin due to this. He's a left-handed as I am (read: not normal. heheh...), and he's used to have the front brake lever on the RHS for his old 4-piston Shimano XT hydros. When he purchased his new XT hydraulic brakes, he's forced to use it as it is - LHS Front, as the brake sets came pre-assembled that way. Poor him, he pulled the wrong lever and ended up with stitches on his chin and scratches on the new brakes. Now, after the accident, he's changed the levers to what he's familiar with - RHS Front.

The other reason is for us to know our options and be prepared with any further costs ($ and time) should we need to have them modified to our preferences.

My way

I get around this problem by having it this way:

- LHS for front controls - brake and FD shifter

- RHS for rear controls - brake and RD shifter.

Okay, it is more towards fixed setting, since shifters are always LHS mounted for the FD, and RHS mounted for the RD. And, coincidentally, the same is for v-brakes. So I've got no issues on this, if I were to use Shimano hydros. Anyway, for the option freak me, I went with ambidextrous ones from Avid. Well, I bought because I got 'em cheap, primarily, and as a bonus, the design.

Also, I don't ride motorcycles because I don't have one, and that's primarily because I don't have a license (really, no kidding!). So, I don't have any issues with adapting the brake levers when I'm riding a bicycle or a motorcycle.

By the way, my Elixirs came as LHS Front. No twiddling necessary for me. Avid really knows what I want.

:P

The thing to be aware of

The moment you're getting yourself a pair of brakes, bear in mind and ask this question - what mounting option do you have with them, and does it suit your preference? If they do need some modification done to change the mounting side, you'll have to factor in the possible costs (time and $) for doing it.

I'd like to stress here that there's no fixed side for mounting your brake levers. As long as you're comfortable with it, go that path. It's your bike. You're the one who'll be riding it. After all, mountain bikes are built custom for fit, purpose and style; to the rider, riding style and personal preferences.

Which side are you on?

Added 03.11.2014: Do read this also, interesting fact and history.

Why Do Brakes Differ From Country to Country? 

photo credits:

Avid Elixir CR brake lever from mountain.bike198.com

cantilever brake from www.diaryofamountainbiker.co.uk

V-brake and Shimano Deore M-595 - mine

Tips

We all love tips, especially waiters and waitresses.

 

Well, I do too, but in my line of work, that kind of tips would be construed as bribes. Anyway, this is not about that.

 

Tips are  simple, cheap, tried and tested ways of doing things. Basically re-purposing non-special tools or bits, usually common things around us, to make our lives easier. You can say, for some instances, they are pocket and life savers.

 

***

Head on to:

http://www.diaryofamountainbiker.co.uk/mtb_tips.php

 

There are 10 tips (so far). They're practical, cheap and easy to follow.

 

Tips therein:

Tip 1 Talc up your tyres

Tip 2 Avoid cable rub - my favourite
Tip 3 Check your cleats
Tip 4 Freshen up your camelbak
Tip 5 Bite your bars
Tip 6 Repair torn tyres - I used this for a fellow biker during Batu Pahat jamboree

Tip 7 Keep your shades safe

Tip 8 Double Tube your tyres

Tip 9 Brush up on your cleaning

Tip 10 Stop squealing brakes

 

***

More tips in here:

http://www.klmbh.org/main/index.php/articles/15-miscellaneous/28-tips-for-the-home-mechanic

 

***

My one favourite tip that I picked up from an episode of CSI, as rhymed by Catherine:

'righty tighty, lefty loosey'

 

However, it is only applicable to standard threaded screws and bolt & nuts.

 

On a bike, these are on the reverse:

1. BB thread on the RHS (drive side) - for ISO/English thread

2. Pedal, on the LHS crank (non-drive side)

 

To remember this, use 'Pedal it right' - Right Hand Side pedal has the 'right' i.e. 'correct' (or standard) thread

and the opposite for BB thread.

***

 

Thanks for dropping by.

Have a good day!

16.09.2010 New Drivetrain

clean your drivetrain!

 

Following the chainsuck episode, I learned that the way it ought to be is that your drivetrain should be changed entirely when the time comes. New teeth (cassette and chainrings) would warrant new chain. In my case, the RD jockey wheels also need to be changed.

 

Uh oh, that means $. Big time.

 

My current drivetrain:

Crankset : Shimano Deore 2010 FC-M590-L 22/32/44T 170mm arm

Cassette: SRAM PG-970 11-34T

Chain: XTR/Dura Ace CN-7701 9 speed

Chain connector: KMC Missing Link 9 speed

RD jockey wheels: KCNC 11T sealed bearing

 

As you can see, the drivetrain setup is no more SRAM/Truvativ/XTR, but more of 'whatever goes'.

:)

 

Crankset

The chainrings on Stylo are a little bit worn out now making me suffer with chainsuck, and the Deore on Naza's bike has only run for less than 100 km and is sitting somewhat idle collecting dust. I intended to only swap the rings from Deore to Stylo, in order to make a cheap and simple change.

 

Prior to that, I've asked around for loose chainrings (22/32/44T), but none available and new ones are not cheap. The easier path is to buy new crankset (and it comes with BB too). A new Stylo Team 3.3 (not OCT) would be around RM400 (cheapest I found), a new XT would be around RM650, and a new Deore 2010 is between RM170 to RM200. Okay, Deore is out of the league there, but they're easier on the pocket, and more durable. However, I don't intend to spend $, hence I'm going the thrift option.

 

The big and middle chainring BCDs for my Truvativ Stylo Team and Naza's Shimano Deore 2010 are the same - 104 mm. However, the spider length is a bit longer on the Stylo hence it won't accept the big ring from Deore's. Well, it's not that simple after all. So, I took out Stylo from Hollowpoint together with its BB and Deore from Naza's Diamondback, and swapped them out. The process took me a good 1½ hours with cleaning and all. Also, I've read in a forum that the steel midring and granny on Deore are more durable compared to aluminium and people swear by it. Obviously there's the weight penalty, but I guess I could live with that considering the $ involved.

 

Cassette

I bought the cassette secondhand in a very good condition (very slightly used) to replace my old one a couple of months ago. No wear sign at all, so I consider that it is new.

 

Chain

My XTR/Dura Ace CN-7701 chain is worn badly now, and it's high time for a change. I'm still using CN-7701 chain to replace the old one due to it's zinc plated feature. That means it's easily cleaned and would not rust easily. XT's is with zinc plated outer plate, too. Moreover, I got a good price for the chain, so I grabbed it. Mind you that CN-7701 does not get a very good review on mtbr, but I've been riding with it and I can live with it. Perhaps if I'm able to do it diligently, I'll keep track of the mileage and wear of the chain. That'll be something nice to do and report in here.

 

Chain Connector

I'm a fan of chain connectors. There are a few brands available in the market - the original SRAM Powerlink II, KMC's Missing Link, and two other Taiwan brands. SRAM's tend to be sold at RM15 and KMC's at RM10. They're virtually the same, and I've been using KMC's for a couple of years now with not much of a problem. Why KMC? Well, the answer is obvious - the price is only 67% percent of SRAM's.

 

I admit that some people would have to get really acquainted to installing and removing the connectors, and many ended up cursing at them while nursing their bleeding fingers before throwing them away at the trailside and resorting back to using the good ol' chain tool and spare links. I don't have this problem, and I'm happy with not needing to whip out my chain tool.

 

If possible, I'll get the gold coloured ones. It acts as a marker for lubing my chain.

 

RD Jockey Wheels

The JWs on my 2010 SRAM X9 RD are turning into sharp 11 pointed stars already. After much research, I came to the conclusion that I could use KCNC JWs to replace them. The original ones are 'bushing, hardend' (that's what it says on SRAM's technical manual) with sealed bearings. KCNC's are using 7075 anodized Alloy.

 

Prior to 2010, X9 RDs are using JW with offset mounting for the top pulley. The problem that it poses is that the replacement JW is only available from SRAM and it's not an easy find at least in JB's LBS. I bought a pair for my 2008 X9, and it costed me RM70, from a prominent bike shop in Bandar Melaka. The 2010 X9 eliminates this, and I'm a happy man.

 

That means, I could use third party JWs such as KCNC's. Not for the bling factor, but more of their durability. A fellow rider has been using them for more than 2 years and the condition is still okay. Considering that it's CNC-machined from alloy and the chain rollers grinding on it are made of steel, I'd say that they're good.

 

Just my luck, I got mine from BBS slightly used (only 3 months according to the seller). The ad was posted early this week and I contacted the seller on Tuesday morning. Transfered RM40 and the next day I received the pair of 11T KCNC's. The seller works for DHL, so he waived the postage :)

 

first ride

As a note to self, the new drivetrain starts at odometer reading of 5016 km.

I went into Seri Alam trail yesterday with the new drivetrain setup, and I'd say it's a smooth ride. I didn't actually set and tune the RD properly and as best as I would have, only that it does shift okay with a little skip on the lower gears. However, I'm happy to report that I'm able to use my 11T on the cog now. Will have to further tune the RD for the best possible setting.

 

Well, that'll be after I've cleaned the bike. Perhaps some quiet time after all the Aidilfitri open house invitations.

 

make it better

Some riders are using 2 sets of chain and they swap between the chains after some interval. This reportedly results in longer chain life. I don't know if it is true.

 

However, we can also use these tips from KMC to minimise chain wear (and perhaps extend drivetrain life).

 

 

Thanks for dropping by.

Have a good day.

 

glossary of acronyms

RD: rear derailleur

BCD: bolt circle diameter

JW: jockey wheel

LBS: local bike shop

CNC: computer numerical controlled

BBS: www.bicyclebuysell.com

DHL: not dua hari lewat/lambat